sredish

The mag shootouts are always bs and lopsided. Remember when the 400ex, they were so freaking ecstatic about the new honda. It's always the new kid on the block that get's the cheese. And you notice the banshee is NEVER in any shootout. Not too long ago they had a production quad shootout. Where was the banshee? They compared stock hp on the machines, the banshee would have wooped them, yfz included, then they compared the stockers with an aftmkt pipe, the banshee would've spanked them again. They only comparo that would have been tough on the banshee is the stocker mx. Don't get me started.

The 2-1 setup will work really well with your mods. Almost an ideal setup for that. The 2-1 would be a pretty good carb for the 1/8th in my opinion, probably not as much the 1/4 but it would have a great pull through the 1/8th, plus dialing in is a snap. The port and polish you have will help that carb respond really well. I'm not going to say that a dual carb won't work well too, cause I'm sure it will, but I'm a major fan of the 2-1 setup and there's my opinion.

i did the cigar thing for awhile. my faves are macanudos. but i started trying new ones and this and that and hit one that was a little too much for me to say the least. got all buzzed and light headed and just didn't fee too well for a little while. I haven't wanted one since.

Try CarbParts.com. Get their number and call them with what you need, if your unsure they can find the part for you. In this case, it's just main jets, so tell them what you have and what you need and they'll get it to you faster than flys on bacon.

depends on elevation and climate differences. you ought to call the person you bought it from and discuss what he had done to it, if any, and what jets are in it.

If that's all the mods you have, you could be from 280 to 310, needle in the 4th position, and stock needles. That is a close guess, you'll have to start rich and work down to find out exactly where you need to be by checking the plugs. Good luck.

nice!!

Let's talk about efficiency for a moment, and I'll use my diesel truck for example. The same should apply in any motor driven situation. My truck stock got 14 city / 17 hwy. I put my computer module in. Basically, the module reads the air intake and increases the fuel flow, turbo boost, increase the pulse of the fuel injection and the adjusts the timing of the fuel injection. Even more simplified, it gives it more fuel for a longer period based on throttle response. So, more fuel, hmmm, less mileage cause I'm using more fuel. Nope. The motor runs more powerful, and the byproduct of more powerful is more efficiency in this case, so less throttle pressure is needed for the same task as before. Less throttle pressure to maintain 75 than needed before. Now, my truck gets 17 city / 21 hwy. Less fuel consumption. I got around 500 miles in a full tank before, and I can now break over 600. That's a definite decrease in fuel consumption. The same would apply to our case, just not near as drastic. Only, our problem, is instead of maintaining, we're always adding to. It's full throttle all the time, so we add mods and up the carbs, we're still full throttle, so the benefit is much harder to see.

Don't actually know the figure, maybe someone can help me with that, but it's not too much, just enough to offset the gain w/ the coolhead. You should be alright to shave the head, provided your not fighting an overheating issue now. My recommendations, if you haven't already done so, is a Pro Design impeller, replace all coolant with Engine Ice coolant, runs 45 to 50 degrees cooler alone, and maybe a couple inline coolers, good for 5 degrees a piece. You do those things and you shouldn't have overheating problems unless you got a problem with the radiator, detonation, or are running the Baja in the dead of summer and weigh 290. You can do that around the same time for not hardly any money and really help. Engine Ice is really good shit, I'd do it right now, before summer, no matter what mods you have or don't have.

that all depends. technically, higher compression makes more power so that would make it more efficient and therefore use less fuel. However, I would believe that the power gains are so minimal that fuel consumption would not noticeably change. Same goes with advancing the timing and head shaving is more beneficial for indians or aborigines.

My guess is we have to pay to see the rest? Damn right baby. I thought you'd like that. You like my "blur" technique??

You'll want to jet it a little richer than what you "expect" to be pretty close, that way you know your not lean. If that makes sense to you. As you get it broke in then you can start the little adjustments and work your way up.

There's actually different theorys behind that and it depends on who you talk to. I do just because i've heard some people say you have to, I don't necessarily believe it, but it can't hurt so screw it. Some say it's alright to let off after you kill it. In the reply above, I was merely stating that he needed to make sure he held the throttle wide open until he killed it, not run WOT then back down to an idle or something like that then kill it.

I'm a male stripper.

ok, first thing, we need a list of mods to have any idea where your needle (or any other jets) should be. If you have any aftmkt pipes at all, go for the 4th position from the top/blunt end. Second, like Krmit said, your jetting is not going to be the same with and without the filter, becuase you'll be getting more air, so if you jet her right w/o the filter, you'll be rich when it goes back on. Third, you can't hurt anything if your too rich, so going up on the mains till she richens up to the point of bogging then backing it off will be fine. Worst that can happen is shee smokes and you foul a plug, no big whoop. Fourth, if you check your plugs on a WOT run and they're really light colored or white, then go up more than a slight amount, go up say two or three until you see some color then slow it down a bit. If, in the process, shee begins to bog, check your plugs to see if they're wet, they should be. Fifth (and final), the ONLY way to correctly check the main is a Wide Open Throttle run in 5th or 6th. If you put a main size in and go cruising around the yard, you ain't doin shit. So, put the main in, get out on the road or something and run the shit out of it WOT and see what shee does. If you check the plugs, kill it while the throttle is still pinned and then coast to a stop and check them, that is the accurate way. Try it out, and get back to us.

Bro, I did a search on Val-Du Lakes and everything that came up was in Michigan and this is what came up: Don't know if that was what your looking for.

Oh, I thought you were going to say you came out of the closet.

Depends on what you consider "high compression" and how "high" the compression is. Mine is around 148 on both. Which for me is perfect, it is higher than the stock 120 - 125, but not so much that I risk pounding my crank, nor do I have the need for high octane race fuel, 92 is just right for me. There are some running 170, but that's too high for my taste, and you might need some crank work when your that high. Just stick with 150 and under and you'll be fine, and be enjoying and little more power than you had before. Scott

Mine smokes like a nasty sob until shee's warm. I mean nice purty-smelling white fumes and it clears little by little, and by the time shee's fully warm (6 or 7 minutes), she's running nice and clean, maybe a little smoke when i launch a full scale WOT ass kickin but hey, let's not get picky.

Agreed totally with them. That much advance could be a problem without the right fuel, don't even think I'd push that far with 110. If you have a somewhat lean condition, then that will make them worse and really get you into problems. Throw her back to +4 and check your jetting and let us know what you got. A Coolhead will help flow more coolant and dissipate heat, but generally it's ran using high compression domes which create heat, so the benefit is usually nulled by the heat from the compression. Don't buy one to help with cooling. If your having heat problems, it probably won't do what you want. That's a new machine, so you shouldn't be having problems with the radiator and such. Like I / they said, pull your timing back some and check your plugs, I bet the problem lies there.

I normally stay somewhat in contact with her and I haven't heard from her in a little while. She must be out having too much fun with her single carbed banshee. I'll send her a pm to see WTF. Scott

Depends on the FMFs in question. Let's take the fatties, due to the inexpensiveness and good bang for the buck pipes. I'd say their somewhat similar, except that the Pro Circuits come on a little higher. I won't comment too much on the Pro Circuits too much cause I have in the past and was a little off. But they seem to have good mid and good top end, coming on a little lower than the Toomeys, but a little higher than the Fatties. The Fatties have a good low and powerful midrange on through a good top end. They really accentuate / amplify the midrange but still pull in the top good. The Fatties are known for their responsiveness to mods. The more mods you give them, the better they perform. I'm unsure as to how the Pro Circuits relate, though I"m sure they're responsive to mods as well. Hope that helps some.

in the mail.

in the mail.

Cool, I'll double check that when i throw on the flywheel. I closed 'er up to keep the dust out until I get it back. Scott