sredish

Hey, WTF??

Yamaha wants the stock compression to be between 125 and 130 at sea level. If you have a bike at sea level and it has 130 lbs. and then you take it to 5,000', the compression will drop to, say, 105 lbs. because the air is less dense. It's very important to factor in the elevation when looking at compression numbers. That's why if you take a carburated motor from sea level to say the Rocky Mountains, it runs like shit because it needs to be tuned for the higher elevation and less air. I'm at 600' and my banshee stock was at 127 lbs. If it said 95lbs., I'd be getting a new top end in that bitch, especially if I was in Miami at sea level. One thing I don't know, is how to figure actual ratios, like 10:1, or 7:1. I don't know that. I just know what I said above. I hope that helps.

You won't be "salvaging" top end, you'll just not be going as fast at the same rpms. If, with stock gearing, your going 70 @ 9,000 rpms, if you lower your gearing (larger front sprocket), you'll be going slower at the same rpm. You'll have to shift faster, because the lower gearing will make your gears shorter, which helps the low end torque. Some like it, some don't. The only way to know is to try it. The cheap JT and Primary Drive are great sprockets and cheap enough you can buy several different sizes to find out how you and your shee respond to the gearing. It also depends on your mods as to what gearing you can pull, and how / where you ride as to what gearing will be best suited. Depending on where I ride, I'll change my gearing to suit the terrain, for example, when headed to the dunes, I'll go a size smaller on the rear, which lowers it a tad, and that helps me move my power where I need it out there. I can pull 15/41 easy on the dunes through 6th, but I like it a tad lower (15/40) than that for hitting the bowls and ramps and such. If I was strictly dragging, I'd probably use different gearing. In the end, it's what you feel is best for you. Some like high gearing and some like low. Experimenting is the best and only way to really know where how you like it set up.

Home Depot is a pretty cool place to work and they usually hire just about anyone, they have positions for the half-retarded all the way to management. If I had to have a no-real responsibility job, that's where I'd go. Unfortunately, I work for myself, no 401k, no insurance benefits, no dental, just get up 7 days a week and bust my ass and hopefully make enough money to keep my doors open for another month. Sometimes, it's the greatest thing, make lots of money, make my own hours, and go ride when I feel like it. Other times, I'm not sure where the next check is coming from and the outlook in 6 months is grim. Fortunately, after I look back, every year my gross keeps going up and up and this year has already come close to outdoing last year in just 6 months. Motivation, that's all it is, and I'm not saying you don't have or do have, I'm just saying that's what it takes. Telemarketing sucks, cold calling people on the phone that don't want you callingis no fun. However, if I didn't know how I was gonna buy food next week, I'd take it, even if it lasted a week. Money is money, and when you need it, there's no other choice. Take that job and keep looking, if another comes up, then go for it, if not, your still making a paycheck. Good luck. Scott

like the pimp you are...

Other than neatness and cool factor, what is there to gain? I heard someone mention that it allows more power through to the wires that need it, but I don't necessarily believe that. So I thought I'd be the one to ask the stupid question.

Yeah, I'll stand behind you on that. Take a look-see and let us know. Later man, Scott

The only time you really need a high octane race-type fuel is when you run the risk of detonation. The risk for detonation would be there if you have high compression in your cylinders, like 160 and up. The risk would be greater if you have a high compression motor and the timing is advanced. If you have stock compression or pretty close to it, there wouldn't really be a need to run a race-type fuel. If anyone has another reason as to why he/she should be running high octane, then please let us know. Scott

ok ok, what's the story of the figurine???

Probably not, you could try a tractor service shop, or a bearings specialist shop. We have a shop close by that specializes in bearings and seals. They have everything I need.

without a doubt. most of them will be fine. just get a new one that's not bent.

it's ok right now. I'm there talkin trash.

Hell yeah, that's a far ass shipment. Wonder what the cost for overnight would be on that one.

That's the best way to get stuff out stuck in the filter. Patience will pay off. An Outerwears cover is the best route for the long run.

One clip on the needle is equal to half a main jet size. So if you richen your needle one clip and richen your main one size, you've richened the midrange and effectively gone up on the mian 1.5 sizes. One other thing, bump your main, then do a check, then bump your needle. Don't do it all at once, this way, you'll know what change caused what. If you change both, and it runs funky, you won't really know which did what. Another way to look at it, if you raise your main, the top end of the needle (top of the midrange) will be a tad richer also. My suggestion: bump your main to 300 and see what shee does. THEN, try bumping your needle. If she runs good with the 300 and starts to bog after you bump the needle, you know what the problem is. My .

You need to run a compression check. If it's over 155 or 160 you need to run a race fuel mixture, and how much fuel depends on how high the compression is. With 20cc domes, you could be close and be on either side of the line, if you have 15cc domes, guaranteed you'll need some race fuel, unless your at 5k or 6k feet. 185 main is a decent average. that should get you close for a good start. honestly, if it was mine, I'd start at 200, so I know that I've got it somewhat rich, 185 could be good, or a little lean, or a little rich. Your 48 pilot is not bad, you could try a 50 and see if that help some. You should probably run a leakdown test before you run it also. That way you've eliminated an air leak inside the case, which will help you after you get her up and going if you come into lean mixture / detonation problems. Plus, it's easier to do out of the frame. Let us know if you need something, or if you want to run your compression amount by us. Keep us posted. Scott

Damn dude, I don't know whatsup with all that oil. Ha, bet your machine was feelin a little heavier than normal. Gots to go, but I'll think about it.

It doesn't seem that there's ever anyone in there. We need to bust it up some. At the time of this post, there's 43 members online, and it seems that there's one in the chat room, but he's not responding and I don't recognize the user name. That's just sorry, we need to get back in the swing of things. Later. Banshee HQ Chatroom BTW, not to be a hipocrit, but I'm logging off now, so if you go in now, I won't be there.

did you go ahead and order a set? if so, I'm waiting for an opinion. My concerns are the rideability compared to the Fatties, with the midrange the Fatties have and how they feel in comparison.

Sorry to hear that man. Go ahead, kick the dog, we know you want to.

same god damned thing here. I worried, scraped and rubbed and the shit didn't come off, so I said f*^k it. You can't see it anyway unless your really close, and if I see someone sticking their f'ing melon down to look at it, I'll kick 'em in the ass. PS - Oh, this is my 2,000th post.

Is it definitely boiling over and out? Is it possible that there's a leak in the overflow bottle that makes you think your using coolant? Have you moved your bottle from the stock location? Just a few questions. Scott

Alright fellas, I started over. Deleted all the script and started fresh, got it to work, then did a full site update. Seems to work now. Go to: Redish Construction home page and play with the links. Keep in mind, it's still a little bare, I wanted to get the navigation up and going, then work on filling it in. In the Rustic Homes page, there will be a second drop menu that will give you some subcategories, check that out too. Very pimpin'. Thanks for the help. Scott

Well, the CSScriptLib shit didn't work because I put it in the main index. Afterwards, I put the whole "Generated Items" folder and now it works, except for the "Homes" page. On that page, I have two drop menus and neither works. I don't know if I need another script file for the second menu, or what. Little by little. I need to add another link in the main drop menu to take you back to the home page. Thanks for the help, I'll get 'er here in a few. Scott

I found the /Generated Items/CSScriptLib.js and uploaded it directly to the main index on my server. It didn't work, but I'm going to try a full site update to see if I'm missing something. I was adding pieces individually. I wonder if there's something I need to add to the individual pages. Thanks for providing some intelligence that I'm lacking. I'll keep on working away on it... Scott