sredish

i've been trying to figure out where this choke tube goes on my single carb.....

tuning is KEY, with a single or duals. you can jet in half the time but I will say the single carb setup is a tad more finicky than duals... so, you have to pay attention. when you figure out what the single carb likes, it's super easy and quick to jet. Wallrat says 95% of the topend, I'd guess 100%. with the 35 and proper jetting / pipe setup, the topend runs insane but the low mid is still smooth. I agree with snop some, there are two main reasons people discredit the 2-1, 1) because they haven't tried it and 2) because they experimented and didn't get it fully tuned properly. just my opinion.

most of the neg. comments on the T6s come from duners who port and mod and don't get the power they first expected and that the T5s are more top end heavy and are a fave of the duners. most people that comment on stuff like that, making neg. comments haven't tried them. also, a lot of times one person thinks negatively about something, it's just that it doesn't suit their ride style so therefore it must be bad. Just because it doesn't fit one person's style or goals doesn't mean it won't fit someone else's. I'll use Fatties for example. I think they're one of the best all-around pipe you can buy, they work extremely well with mods and produce a nice smooth powerband top to bottom, but they don't produce the top end of a CPI for draggers, so therefore they must be "bad". But, I'd guess 75% of the people that ride Banshees would be better suited with Fatties than with T5s.

thanks for the info, i'll stick that in my favorites for future use.

IMO, the 35mm carb is the ideal size for a stock bore bike, ported and works fine for a non ported motor. With porting, the 35mm performs killer. Without porting, the 33mm is a little more ideal but leaves you a little shorted should you mod further and with very little differences stock, it makes no sense to go that small and close the options off some. A 38mm carb will work fine but you do risk losing some bottom end, which is the point of the single carb to start with, IMO. With a single 35mm, you gain more power over the entire powerband, bottom to top than with the stock carbs. When you start going too big, the smoothness of the powerband suffers, as does throttle response. If your drag racing, then response isn't an issue but if you dune, race mx or something where part throttle is just as important as full throttle, it's important to have the carb match. If you find a deal on a 38mm, then I wouldn't hesitate to pick it up and run it, but if they're both the same price, I'd shoot for the 35 personally. That's just my little opinion.

the choke can do it and the choke setup on the stock carbs is prone to problems.... glad you found it.

Trinity's all used to come with PJ's, then moved to the Keihin PWKs when they come out strong. The PWK Airstryker is IMO, the best single carb setup. The way the venturi is shaped helps with low rpm vacuum and it performs really well and responsive. The Lectron is a great carb as well, just a little too touchy for me, a little harder to regulate throttle.

do not hold the torch in one place for too long and work it slowly, you'll get the hang of it after you try it. but, if you hold it there too long, you'll obviously melt the stuff; the key is to heat to the point of almost melting and then letting it cool, it'll take to the original color and smooth out / gloss over.

damn thats hot... 210 maybe with that heat.

an ohm meter measures resistance. if you were to set the meter for ohms / resistance, when you touch the leads together, it should read 0. then, you take one lead and place it on one side of the box (where the manual states) and then place the other lead in the other location, measuring resistacnce between the two points, you'll get a reading. the manual should have a spec for the item. if your meter reads w/in speck it's cool, if not, you could have a problem.

you will not have a problem running either pipe on an otherwise stock bike. You will have to have the carbs jetted properly, but other than that there won't be any problems with running those pipes. The T6s are designed more around a stock bike and if your plan is to keep it stock, I'd probably shoot for the T6s.

that sounds like a good start.

Your fine. It might settle in at 135, maybe but if you'd have asked, I'd have told you to expect 130 to 135. IMO, 21cc domes are a waste at anything over 500'. You can push it up to 150 to 155 with pump gas so there's free power, maybe not loads but free power when your choosing dome size. You should be able to get away with 19cc domes at 1800' on pump gas, be hitting 155 and you'd notice it.

yea, he's talking about the gap between the pickup coil and the flywheel. don't remember the specs and don't think that's something that's going to just quit. if it was me, I'd try to find / borrow a cdi and coil from a friend and swap them over to see if that fixes it. if it does then you know what you need. you can check for voltage to the coil but don't remember the spec off hand. stators can go bad. have you had any water in there or hit any water crossings?

The porting makes it unable to give you a good guess as identical porting can make a machine run totally different from the next, then the fact that no one portjob is identical and it just makes it a huge variable. the differences in carb sizes 35 vs. 38 could be a good factor for differences as well. nonetheless, we'll see what we can do. I say start with a 200 main jet. That could be too big but then it could be lean if it's not drawing ideally, possible with the 38. You need to pull the needle while your jetting and read the letters on it, it will help for us to know what needle you have in there. Put the needle in the 4th clip down, put a 200 main in there and see how it works, my gut tells me you'll back it off to a 195 or 190. A 48 pilot will probably be a good place to start as well. From there, you'll want to take it for a ride and do a plug run to see how the plugs look. You should know pretty quick which way your going to need to go. For example, my motor with a 35mm PWK used a 185 w/ a DEK needle when it stock porting. Then I had Eric Gorr port them and went to a 230 main and still too lean. Swapped the needle to an EEK and went from a 230 to a 210 and ran awesome. I have friends whose motors I've worked on and dealt with. One has a ported motor and is running a 187 with an EEK needle. Stock bikes with pipes tend to like a 175 to 185, somewhere in there.

the manual has a very good troubleshooting guide that goes through the steps of elimination. it's a handy thing to have.

a plug with a hotter heat range, or colder heat range, just means it will transfer heat differently. the way you can tell if you need a different heat range is by reading the ground strap. there's a color change that occurs on there and it should occur in the middle of the bend. your plug being wet has nothing to do with the heat range. i suggest leaving the heat range alone.

good info. wonder how the techniplate would work with powervalves... for my 250r.

no joke? my bad then. i haven't done much mikuni stuff with them but figured they'd have it.

hey man, not sure what i did but if you got your bike running good, then that's what matters. it sucks to have a shitty running bike but it makes it all fun when you can work through a problem and then get rewarded with a killer running bike. when I have a problem and little adjustments won't work it out, I'll do what you did, go to an extreme, like richest needle clip setting and see how she reacts. In your case, it worked out perfectly, richen the hell out of it, get it to stumble and work it backwards. Good job.

www.carbparts.com

I NEVER turn my fuel off. I don't even think about it just turn the bike off and go. The petcock has nothing to do with your issue.

try: http://www.carbparts.com and http://www.pro-flo.com/

pull the float bowl off the bottom of the carb and the main is right there on the bottom.

or there... :biggrin: didn't know woodward had them... sorry.