sredish

I assumed it was probably a DEK as I've never seen one come with an EEK, most generally have to go buy one. But, he has what he has, so I figured, throw it in the 4th clip, and see how it does. He'll know pretty quick if he needs to adjust or not.

Do you have an overflow bottle or is it just vented out / bypassed like mine? That sounds like what it is. I just read your whole post thoroughly. I've been out of town and haven't had a lot of time so I've been working on minimal info. The smoke sounds like coolant and the drip is sometimes common like that with a bypasses coolant vent line. What is coming out of the tube would normally go into the bottle and then there you go with the lack of staining issue and smoke.

185 main, 48 pilot, needle in the 4th clip, to start anyways.

Engine Ice.

Well, it can't be brake fluid as the brake fluid is sealed and is not running through those black lines. How are your brakes? If it was brake fluid leaking, your brake lever would feel it. The line you mentioned is a vent line and must be spewing some crankcase oil. Is your crankcase getting pressurized? Start it up and open the crankcase fill hole, squeeze that line closed and put your thumb over it to see if you feel any pressure. I don't really think you'd see much brake fluid if it was dripping, unless you saw it while it was still wet. The line you mentioned, I believe, should run up to the front then up by the upper stem mount and vent there, bent 180 so the opening is facing down, of course. If it's farther down towards the lower part of the frame, maybe there's a draw there pulling some oil out.

Looks purty. Nice clamp-on. That's exactly how I like to run mine. Nice and easy to get to the carb should it be necessary.

Is it black? It sounds like the case vent tube. There's a vent hole right in the very back of the case where the swinger mounts. Its a bitch to get to kinda but if you look back there, it connects there back where the carb vent lines go down. One back there and the one on the right side goes up and into the T, then vents out.

good point Aminalman, Brats are very friendly during a night ride with people behind you. They don't throw up, they throw back and the HOOK. 8 paddle Brats hook up very very well.

orings or not, I use gaskets on both sides, reeds-to-cylinder and reeds-to-intake.

Good boy John. :biggrin: :thumbsup: This sounds familiar, I think I've said this before... not to you particularly John, but as I've said before, I'm not a fan of the T5 power. It has a very lightswitch powerband. A 2-1 carb kit helps but the only real solution if you don't like it is to change pipes. Many people just gear the bike way down to help with the low end, but this is just a serious band-aid IMO. I didn't like my T5s at all, from the fit / finish, to the power production. I got them on and couldn't wait to get them off. I've said it before but people always argue with me and "All Hail the Toomey". :yelrotflmao: Try and find some PT Hi Revs, much smoother, incredible midrange and topend. With a 2-1 kit, it has surprisingly decent low end and doesn't "hit" like that. Good luck with the needles, getting the needles adjusted properly should help some. Let us know how it works out.

The person you need to talk to and buy from is: Jim @ Fullerton Sand Sports (714) 898-2049 You won't find someone more knowledgeable and he'll comp cut you a paddle that weighs 9 or 10 pounds mounted with incredible hookup. Jim knows tires and will not steer you wrong. He sells Haulers and everything else so you can discuss all the options with him. Have you ever ran a set? An extreme hauler, to me, is nothing more than an overwieght hauler. Only reason it gets more traction than a hauler is due to less fle because the paddles are the same. But, when your looking for a sand tire, weight is a HUUUGE thing that is often overlooked. The brats can be cut down right to the cords, weigh 9 lbs. and outhook any Hauler. Not too mention, as Snop pointed out, you can get many many different paddle variations to accommodate higher hp machines. I'm not arguing, tires are like oil, everyone like something different, I'm just pointing out my experiences and I don't think there's another tire out there that can compete with a Brat. Why don't more people use them, you ask? Because they cost $400 a pair for comp cut 6 or 8 paddles. You can get Haulers cheaper so there you go. It's hard to pay 4 bills for a pair of tires but once you do, they're friggin awesome. Best part is, IMO, they dune better than any tire, V or straight, I've ever tried. They are so friggin light, that they just float and dune and ride soft. I've ran Extreme Haulers in different paddle counts, regular Haulers in different paddles, Edges, Sand Stars, Gliders and the only two tires I've felt the need to keep are 1) my Brats, of course and 2) my triple buff 21" Haulers. I like the Brats better but I keep the buffs to run on the spare bike. My Brats are comp cut to the point that they need to be aired twice a day as they lose a tad bit of air through the cords. But, the motherfuckers are LIIIGHT. Wait, did I already say that?

*cough* comp cut Brats *cough*

it's all up in the air when the porting is changed. a dune port from one person is not equal to a dune port from someone else. you could need a 320 with one port and 350 with another. if you needed a 280 previously, try going to a 330 and see what happens. you could have a need to go richer but maybe not.

again, yes.

sand stars - heavy boat anchors, lots of spin haulers - nice, lighter tire with good traction padla brats - ultimate tire in comp cut or play cut. killer traction and hook up, killer duneability.

i say weld up those yammi holes and start with a new port layout. post pics during the reconstruction....

I don't have to read the 4 pages, all I have to say is: Fuck Mike Vic, when he's in jail, I hope they tie him up, gang rape him, throw him down on the wet floor and attach a 110 cord to his fucking balls. I'm 30 years old, work my ass off for a nice living. These fucks are looking at retirement by the time they're my age and have made 50+ million and have nothing to do but be shitty thugs with zero positive influence to the people that gave them that money. I have grown to despise professional sports as a whole, 90% of them aren't worth the shit that comes out of their asses. Worst part about it is our kids grow up thinking that shit is cool and these are people to look up to. I'm a big college football fan but then when you see some fuckin punk that's 19 years old with diamonds all over his friggin teeth, you know he's destined for shit as well and makes you not want to watch a damn thing, I'd rather go outside and play ball with my son or go ride quads somewhere and do something positive for myself. Fuckin assholes, they should be playing for a capped 100k a year and no more. They should be lucky to get even that. Makes me sick, yet America throws their money at them.

xring and oring are the same, it's just the shape of the ring in the pivot points. some say xring has more power robbing resistance but its not too much. any good oring chain will work well. RK chains are nice, DIDs are nice. Here's a picture of oring and xring. it's from a site selling xrings so they're trying to show how good xrings are versus orings but they both work well, just wanted to give you a visual on the cross section of an oring chain. edit: oh yea, Steel sprockets for sure. Just buy cheap ones, JT or something, don't need to spend a lot of dough, but it's recommended to buy a chain and sprockets together so they were together.

crossover tube on the intakes? you might check compression on both cylinders as well to see if one's dropped some.

chop the back 2" of the lid off like I did. Works great, more air and still good protection. And remove your snorkel if you haven't already.

ya ya I know, its all in good fun. :thumbsup: not really sure tho, that i need to be on your bike.... :woot:

oooh...... i see.... what about the crossover tube?? :biggrin:

oh yea, forgot: 1) Xylene is harsh on rubber parts. Please do not do this or you might be out some expensive carburetor parts. 2) Say hello to tolulene and goodbye to throttle response. There's a lot more to race fuel than just high octane. Putting toluene in gas only serves to make the bike run like crap. Increased amounts only serve to make the throttle response worse, but, it won't detonate! Now, the toluene your talking about isn't the same as the additive toluene gas makers use. You can't purchase pure toluene on the open market. So be careful of attempting this.

oh chit firehead, was that you I saw at Exxon in the full service bay?? j/k man.

You mean the janitor / operator? :biggrin: