sredish

Well, honestly, your going to have to take it all apart to see exactly what you have then go from there. Could be several different things going on, but a full on scrap shouldn't be necessary.

I do really want blue plastics, but just don't think it'd be worth paying for the shipping and i still like my black and whites. i'd love a set of blues though. I think i want some blue fullbores.

are you kidding me? did i accidentally go into the roosting forum or the gen. discuss. forum? nope, it still is the for sale forum.

I'm sure he'll pm you, but his turnaround is super quick. As soon as he gets it, he cuts it and usually has it back in the mail the next day. In my case, I was headed to the dunes and was crunched for time and he hooked me up with 2 day shipping. My total turnaround from me shipping to me receiving was like 4 days, including a Sat and Sun.

Yessir, I did. Thanks a million for the stickers, they are supa pimp. If you ever need anything, just let me know.

Yes, remove the throttle caps and pull the whole slide assembly and set it aside, with the cables attached. Then turn off the gas and remove the carbs from the boots. definitely sounds like you need a good carb cleaning... He just means since you have fuel droppping and sittting into that little dip on the motor, it wouldn't take much to set it afire, especially if your a smoker. Later & good luck.

I ran a 310 with similar mods and stock carbs. I'd start at 300 or 310 and work down. Needle in the 4th clip. 25 or 27.5 pilot, just depends on what she likes.

I posted in your other one. I was thinking of a switch mounted on the frame under the seat where you just reach under and flip the switch. Should work good and be "invisible".

what about mounting it on the frame under the seat area to where you can reach under the seat and flip it on or off. may work and not be visible. I've heard of people doing this but don't have any pics or anything.

Power Core II's are less restrictive and therefore slightly more power over the Turbine Cores.

Dammit boy, didn't you read the warning labels on the quad?? Seriously, I hope the both of you are all right and take care of yourself. Later.

wiring diagram can be found in the manual. my kill switch is mounted on the handlebars ( I use my tether) and this post would qualify for the Repairs and Mods forum before the Gen Discuss forum.

Damn, did the same thing when I loaded the page. The first and last wouldn't load. I refreshed and they didn't load, then I right-clicked to "show picture" and it didn't do anything. Hope it's no big deal. That page is looking pretty smoking. Hey, I even learned something. I've been here awhile and I honestly didn't know the plugs fire together at every spark. Of course, I knew there was only one CDI and a little common sense tells me how that works, but I just never thought about it.

I think I've heard of that guy, what a loser... who would ever trade a set of PT mids for a set of Fatties. Yeah, the trinity setup is cake to jet, think 3 minute main changes. Just make sure to get the oring on the manifold good and all the manifold bolts nice and tight to ensure no air leaks. I have been kinda fighting a small air leak somewhere, think I've got it but I need to go play with her some. Later.

Just wondering why you posted one problem in the Repair/Mods then came over to Gen Dis. to post the new problem?? You said new question, but most people would think it'd be in the Repairs/Mods like it should be. Just wondering...

B8ES work with the stock setup because the stock plug boots have resistors in them so a non-resistor plug will work fine. If you change the boots out then you'll need to run BR8ES. BR8ES and B8ES work exactly the same, no diff in performance or anything. When in doubt, run BR8ES. Later.

Sounds like your floats aren't adjusted properly.

I live in horse-trainer capital of the world. There is an area of about 50 square miles that have more horses than any other place in the world, and all the top trainers in the world are here. Most of my customers, diesel perf. and construction, are in the horse industry, and a lot of my new clients find out about me through my construction company, local advertising or word of mouth. There are a lot of rural people out here who have nothing to do with horses but I don't get much of an opportunity to go after them other than local advertising due to my door staying pretty active as it is. Most of my present customers aren't really looking for 4 or 6 inches of lift or something to make they're duallys flex better, but they look for something that will give them another 100 or so horses to help pull their big trailers. Pretty much all of the in the horse world here are 2 wheel drive, but there are some 4x4s out there. There are more Western Haulers here than you could count. I'm known by name more than a company's name around here, so there will be no problem there with a change of names. Basically, I want to use the name to start marketing via the web that I haven't been involved with before. I may just stay with the original, but I don't know. I'm just going to think about it for a few days and see if something sticks with me. Cool, well keep thinking fellas and I'll see you all tomorrow. Scott

aah, it'll wear off then you'll be like

Pretty nice wheels for a nice Ford Superduty... Evil?? Boonman?? 20" Ford wheels Later. (BTW - not my auction)

you can paint, just need a flex additive to allow the paint to flex somewhat with the plastic. you can probably do a search for "paint plastic" or something similar and get some stuff. I used to have a great link to painting but my comp. crashed and I lost it. Later.

yep, 1mm = 1 degree of timing change

Hold up y'all. I got an email from ebay regarding member mjw2568 , stating they closed all his auctions and suspended his privileges due to an investigation of his sales. I wouldn't be buying shit from him, if you did, oooh I'm sorry. I looked up all his past auctions, and they're all Banshee Fullbore, Banshee Plastic, and Banshee Graphic Kit auctions. Here's my email:

It don't matter how loose the chain is, there should be NO play in the axle or swingarm, just the pivot of the suspension. Where exactly IS the play? Also, ebay has tons of service manuals, I suggest you visit there. In fact, here's a Clymer with "Buy It Now" for $25. If you don't do ebay, then just go to the dealer and buy a factory Yamaha one, that's what I have, I like the factory books and such. I don't recommend a cd rom because I think they're a bitch to look stuff up in, plus it's nice to have the book in your hands when your ass deep in your quad in the shop. I have a laptop and it would still be a bitch with the cd rom in the shop while your working. I do have a cd rom manual and the book, and I never use the cd. If you search on tightening the chain you'll probably find a lot of stuff. Later.