sredish

ok ok, i guess i'll get in on this to...

Full throttle = main jet. I'd take a WOT/Full Throttle run and kill it while the throttle is still pegged in 5th or 6th, then see how the plugs look. Don't back out if it bogs, just kill it with the throttle pegged. See if the plugs look oily and wet or dry. I say this because it could be a lean bog, that's why I'd say check the plugs before you back the main off? Does it bog or sputter out? I have a feeling you might be lean. Later.

Tors elim. kit is a good idea. It's not if it's goes bad, it's when.

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what do the plugs look like, sounds like the one is just on the edge of fouling out and sputtering but you still are getting enough spark ot keep it alive. what does the other one look like?? the plugs fire at the same time, not back and forth, so if there is a problem with it skipping then that needs to be addressed. basically need to figure out if it's jetting or electrical, i'd start with jetting first. Hope this helps. Later.

Remember a couple of weeks ago, maybe three, I said that my computer wouldn't start up, it tried then died? I talked to Dell, and we ended up removing every thing from the motherboard and attempting to startup and it still wouldn't respond. The power button hadn't responded at all, it required an unplug then plug back in for any activity. Well, they said the motherboard was toast and they're sending some guy out on Monday to repair it. Thank god it's not my daily computer, just the wife's home computer to doodle on and look things up some. Later.

I did mine at the same time as pipes, so I don't know what it would've done to my machine, but, Banchetta always said that adding reeds alone could cause a rich condition because it can allow the fuel to be pulled from the carbs and flow in so much easier. In some cases, this is much more or less pronounced than others, some may need to rejet while others may need nothing. I had once thought that it would cause it to lean if anything due to the increased airflow, but he had proved me wrong on several accounts. I'd go down to 310 and see if it improves, and like I said, I've seen/heard of several different accounts where the addition of VForce would cause the plugs to richen, so as weird as it sounds, it's performed as expected. All in all, listen to your plugs if you think everything else is okay. Good luck.

agreed, and i wouldn't even let alba lick my ass. one thing: your machine won't run bad with the t-6's and porting, in fact it will run much better, but you jmoght not bet getting the gains you could have with some t-5's. if you already have t-6's, then get the porting and see if you like it, then you could trade out later if need be.

With just those air mods, the 220 might work out alright. When you get your exhaust on, bump it up to between 290 and 310 and remember to run plug checks, now and after your exhaust addition.

dunno, the FatBoy2's will bolt right up.

You could try richening the needle clip one notch at a time to see if your midrange hits better, if it starts to bog, you know you've gone too far.

First thing, keep in mind that (or at least it sounds like it to me) that we're comparing stock Mikunis to a single Keihen carb. The Keihens will jet TOTALLY different than mikunis even if you used the same size and number of carbs that you took off, then you remove one and cut the number of carbs in half, the jetting will be totally different. I'm running a 55 pilot, as was fro, so yes, that is totally normal. Some use a 52, some use a 48, but you use what works. Now, I don't know enough about the differences in the pilots between a Mikuni and a Keihen, so the number is bigger, but the actual hole diameter may not be too much different, dunno. Later.

MagicRacing.com may have a 43, don't know about the 44 though.

cheap ass...

If not, RockyMountainATV.com has it and cheaper than your dealer would have it for.

you should just run the highest octane offered at the pump, 90 or above I'd say. I run the 93 at my local Exxon.

don't forget to let me know how it works out. later.

Unfortunately, the link won't take you straight there, you have to go through the year & model section every time. I just chose any 300ex and then went to rear caliper. Pretty shitty, banshee having the same rear brakes as the 300ex.

I imagine a 280 or 290 will be pretty close. No matter what, no one can tell you exactly where you'll need to be, we can only get you close and you'll have to do some plug reading and fine-tune adjusting (dialing in) on your own. A good place to start for jetting and reading plugs is the BHQ's Jetting FAQ and BenBB's Jetting FAQ.

Sounds like you want a smaller pilot. I'd put the air screw at about 1 to 1.5 turns out and then put in about a 50 pilot. That may not be just right, but might help get you in the right place. There are several ways to troubleshoot the pilot. One is to figure out whether it cold starts with or without the choke. If it starts cold without the choke, your rich and giving it plenty of fuel to start without needing a choke. If you can't start it hot without the choke, then your lean, because you need the added air/fuel from the choke circuit just to start. If you can get it to idle, pull the choke out after it's warmed up and idling, if it idles better you're lean, if it idles worse you're probably a tad rich. You can also let it idle, if it will even for few seconds, and then kill it and look at the plugs, if it's way rich you'll have a lot of fuel/oil built up on the plug. The air screw simply adjust the amount of air going into the idle circuit to fine tune the air/fuel at idle. If your too rich, the air screw will not make any difference. Does it cold start w/o the choke now? Does it foul out when idling. Well, there's a few things to try and work on. Let us know how it goes or if you have any more problems. Later.

if I remember right, on your plugs, the coloring on the ground strap changed more towards the center electrode than the bend. Ideally, you want the side electrode of your spark plug to change color at about the half way point, about where it makes it's 'L' shaped bend. If the color of the electrode changes near its end where it sits over the center electrode, then the spark plug heat range could be too cold and what you're seeing is the color changing due to the heat transferring too quickly. If the color of the side electrode changes color near where it's welded to the base ring, then your spark plug may be too hot and what you're seeing is a slower heat transfer from the side electrode to the base ring. This can result in preignition/detonation issues and most of the deposits will be burned off so you won't be able to really tell, unless maybe with a magnifying glass. Try a BR7ES and see if the color change occurs more towards the bend and if your "rough idle" subsides. Oh, and the trip was great, just not long enough. It's a little hectic around here today. We did some mountain biking, hit some very tough mountain jeep trails, and were caught in the rain on one day making the descent pretty difficult. We got to see what the Jeep was made of and it handled unbelievably, impressing the hell out of me. Did lots of other things too. How was your 4th??

yea what is it? third here... what the hell is an emulsion tube.

shows you how i pay attention: If it's only when your pinning the throttle wide open, then it's your main jet and not the needle. Have you ran a plug check at the altitude to see what it looks like? I suggest running a WOT plug test and then tell us what the plug looks like. Look for the color around the ring and the ground strap. Here's BenBB's Jetting FAQ, it will help answer a lot of questions regarding plug checks and jetting.

sounds like your pilot is pretty good (same pilot I'm running). i'm wondering if your +7 timing may have something to do with the rough idle then. advancing the timing will make it idle rougher, but i don't have much experience with going over +4 with the timing, don't think it would make that much difference but there maybe something there. how old is the fuel that's in there? i'll think more and get back.

Hmm, a seat of the pants difference is worth a try. Don't think I could side gap my iridiums, but I may try side gapping an ES for sh*ts and giggles. This is a perfect opportunity for a dyno test to see what shows up. I'm getting ready to do some runs in a few weeks. I've been trying to put together a list of things I want to do and work on for optimum performance, maybe I'll add throwing a set of side gapped plugs in to see if there's a change. Oilsmoke, keep the reports coming, I'd be interested to hear more if you do more testing.