sredish

Bell Moto-4 or something. It's almost ten years old, but I'll never get rid of it. I love the thing, and the visor looks extra cool with the crack in it from my latest accident.

and I still don't get any credit for my Knowledge. Oilsmoke, we all know your the bomb. Seriously.

I agree. While Rockets are becoming known as killer pipes as well, I'd wait to see how your fatties respond. Fatties are known to be great pipes that just get better the deeper your mods go, and I'd be interested to see how they perform with that motor. Nonetheless, you have them now, before you drop more bills on pipes, might as well see how they work before you shitcan them. Rockets seem to be some awesome pipes, and I wouldn't mind having a set.

in regards to your needle, it doesn't work the same way as your jets, it's more taper, diameter and length, not "bigger". I could go into great detail about how the needle affects things, but it's much to complicated to go into right now, too early. Basically, from my little experience, the Toomey needle (which is just a Blaster needle) just doesn't seem to work well in the banshee. I've seen a lot of people come through here having a tough time getting there jetting worked out and they're using the Toomey needle, and quite a few come back to update that they removed the Toomey needle and ran the stocker and it's been great since. Just my views.

which nuts, by the carrier? if so, big freaking wrench. But I imagine, the problem your having is do to the thread locker. You need to heat the nuts for a minute to get them a little hot and the thread locker will release it's grab then you can wrench them off. An air hammer with a chisel tip works good too.

Direct link to Engine Ice at RockyMountainATV.com The dealer should order it for you if they don't have it in stock, but some dealers do have it in stock.

Have you done anything to warrant a rejet, and/or have you messed with the jetting recently? When it cut out, was it a sputter or boggy, or just quit for a moment then come back.

word and word.

15/40.

yep. with duals, one carb sucks then the other, back and forth. with the single setup, the carb is constantly pulling a flow of air, the cylinders just take turns using that air, but it's more efficient because the flow is at a constant state, hence the name "constant velocity" or "cv kit".

Unless you have a stroker, your gonna have shit for low end. A pair of 30s are your best bet. In fact, Banchetta posted some dyno sheets comparing different carb sizes. The stock carbs outpowered all other setups for stock and ported bikes. Do a quick search for dyno, and put Banchetta in for the user name and you'll get loads of info regarding carb sizes.

Doug Gust, because he whoops everybody's ass. He can wreck be in last place, and still come back to a second or third finish. Funny, how they pulled apart his motor, and he was completely within specs.

Suzuki 500 4x4 Quadrunner with 27" Blackwaters. She can be a lot of fun too.

Going to 40:1 is richer in the air/fuel mixture than 32:1 because it will be more fuel than there was before, but the difference is so little, it will not be noticeably by any means. If you believe your pilot is fine, then follow your instinct. You know your machine better than any of us. If your carbs weren't synced properly and then the backfire ceased some after you adjusted, maybe it is correct to think you might check them once more to assure proper adjustments. I would say the hesitation is not really something that should be there. Is it possoible that some dirt may have gotten in there and is causing the pilot to clog a little and leaning your idle circuit a little bit? Just a thought, I'm trying to think of some possibilities. The reeds are a possibility also, but I would think the problem would continue up through the powerband some. It's late and my brain isn't all here so instead of continuing to ramble on, I'll save you from it and get back to you tomorrow.

That really doesn't tell you anything about how the main jet's performing. You need to run it from 1st to 5th or 6th wide-open-throttle and then kill it with the throttle still pegged to get an accurate main jet reading. If your still breaking it in and can't wot like that, then go up on the main another size and then run your wot run after it's broken in. You might consider trying your needles one clip richer also.

mains you can get at MagicRacing.com or Carbparts.com. Pilots need to come from the dealer generally, because their banshee specific. and i'd get rid of that Toomey needle and go back to the stocker.

it's all good. smart ass is my middle name, well that's what my wife says anyway.

I have dealt with Trinity some and I don't dislike them. I will say, IMO, their customer service can fall a little short sometimes and their prices aren't the best on some things also, but all in all, I don't think their too bad. I could think of places i'd send my motor first for portwork and such but their bore/cylinder kits are pretty badass IMO.

It works great. Low end is much stronger and the top end is much stronger on a stock and piped shee. The 35mm can handle a port job pretty good. When you start stepping up into strokers and larger displacements, it's time to go back to duals because it start's flowing too much air. If you have a stock and piped w/ stock or ported motor, the single carb is a great setup. Stronger across the board, and it's emphasized by the pipe your running.

i think the new raptor 350 has a yfz designation also, but it's ended with an additional number/letter to designate that it' the raptor 350. And since the banshee's a goner, it' won't be competing with the name anymore.

I use paypal with my "internet only" credit card. if the order doesn't come in, my cc company will cancel charges.

That's bullshit, maybe one of the guys was just trying to make himself sound smart. Engine Ice is the best stuff you can run, much better than regular coolant and much better than watter wetter. It works really well.

Fire it up & spray some carb cleaner or WD40 around your intake boots & see if shee revs. i agree with led's approach. sounds like a lean condition caused by an air leak. get some wd40, carb cleaner and spray away. hopefully you'll find something.

yeah, i really like my yfz, well, yfz350 that is. they both are yfz's, one's a yfz350 and one's a yfz450. a lot of people get confused and think the banshee is a yzf, i've even seen that printed in mags, but the correct model name/# for the shee is a yfz350.

I'm sure he means not running a big bore, like a 409cc kit on a banshee to follow the 350cc class. Boring .010 won't do anything to add cc's, very little, that's why it's not something you'd do to improve performance, because it just shaves off enough to get the marks out.