sredish

I've had several people tell me to go to NOS for the drill bits but I haven't been able to find them as of yet. Are there any other places to go that you all know of? I'm planning on calling them in the morn. but it's Sunday and ain't no one home. Also, anyone know where I can find the diameter of the openings for my Keihen jets? later.

A buddy I know has some chrome LSR +2 +1 arms, not the lightweight rec arms, and he wants $500 for them and that includes the tie rods and steering stuff, only thing I'd need is the brake lines. However, I'm not really wanting +2's, but I'd really like some +1's. Walt told me of some +1 width and +2 forward and I think I'd really like that, bring the center of gravity forward some and increase the width but not quite as wide as the mx'ers. I can't remember who he told me makes +1 width, but I wanted some opinions on this and some opinions on how good a deal the above lsr's are. Scott

does sound like your floats may need some adjustments.

You could open up your stock silencers and pull some of the shit outta them. I'd still say you'll be around 280 or 290. Also, your plugs will really need an hour or so of good riding to start coloring properly. I like to use old nasty plugs for checks, as they've been through multiple heat cycles. Get it to where it's running really good, maybe around 280 and then go ride for awhile, or if you have a ride planned, then that will work. Ride it for an hour or two and get her nice and hot and then check them, the color will come in a lot more.

No, a Single Carb Kit will not take away from your top end, especially if you get the 35mm, I gained top end also, along with the arm ripping midrange and low end grunt. I think the single carb setup is the by far the best setup for a strong midrange with low end, top that off with some midrange/all around pipes and you have a stump pulling highstrung banshee. I can get in the woods and lug her down in and out of the trees and open her up in the straights and she's gone, and I can go up to the dunes and hang in pretty damn good in the drags with my single carb. Some will say you'll lose top end, but those that do have not ridden one. Get the 35 and you'll be good to go for a long time and have more than your share of top end.

Well, surely, they weren't set up properly either for you or altogether.

yeah, good baseline to start at. 320 mains, 4th clip down from the top/blunt end and stock pilot. That should put you very close.

You want speed, check this bitch out. Bad ass Benz 0 - 100 in less than a second. 1/4 mile @ 250+mph

Yeah, that's pretty f'ing sweet. That sucker would sing like a freaking bitch.

searching will yield lots of reading. you can mod your own plate for free, buy an adjustable plate and buy a timing key.

Well if you already have the "muffler" (if a Cherry Bomb qualifies! ) you can get the tubing for really cheap. If you can't find the already-bent stuff at your local stores, most muffler shops are willing to bend and sell you the pieces for a good price. Honestly, a muffler shop can bend the pipe for you much cheaper than anyone can sell you a "kit" for. Just tell them you want a cheap dual exhaust kit. They can throw you on a full 2.5" dual setup cheaper than I can get you a cat back system at my cost for. Just get another cherry bomb.

Hey Led, you'll make the drive if I take down the 40' coach right? Plenty of room and luxury in that bad boy. I'm trying to get something like that going. I've got a couple of local peeps that would like to make the trip.

Guess I'm just a playa!

Ok, first, start her up, let her idle, then when she dies, check the plugs. Are they dry and light or oiled up and fouled? Where's your air screw at also? If it's jetting, it's in the pilot or the screw. When you cold start, are you having to choke it or not? Same with warm starting, choking it or not?

Yea, that would be a perfect setup for your truck bro. Get a Delta 40 and it would sound plenty meaty, 3" to the muff and dual 2.5" out. The cheapest way to do it is to buy the muffler from Summit and then take it to a local muffler shop and let them do all the pipe fitting, it will be cheaper and higher quality. I have a local back door hillbilly shop that does freaking great work and they'll work on my trucks, cat or no cat as long as it's that way when I bring it to them. My 95 454 4wd is catless and they put my dual 3" with dual flowmaster 40s for about $175, and all I supplied was the mufflers. I had to bring the vehicle to them without the cat and then they'd do the rest of the work. Our "understanding" is that is a off-highway ranch truck.

I agree with that statement 100%. In fact, my machine runs a main way bigger than pretty much everyone else with the same setup. Just the way she likes it. It will run great lean, but like you said, only for so long.

could be air screw adjustment, idle screw adjustment, clogged pilot jet. hows the off idle response, does it bog first then catch up or just normal. if it's normal, then it might just be the idle adjustment.

Taller sidewalls mean more surface area on the ground when aired down, but in this case, most paddles tires are so stiff that you could have no air in them and they'll still be upright.

What size carbs are you running?

A 15/45 is 100% identical to a 14/42, and I don't know if you can even get a 45 rear. Even if you can, there's no reason to run that big of a sprocket in the rear, you'd make it just that closer to the ground and it's just not necessary. Run a 14/42 and achieve the same benefit. Stock gearing is 2.92 roughly and 15/45 or 14/42 (however you want to look at it) is a 3.00 ratio and they're both slightly lower than stock. IMO, the difference will only be slightly noticeable, there's not much. The only way to tell if the gearing is what you want, is by trying it. Some like a lower gear and others like a taller gear. I like a taller 15/41 gear, and you could pull that and others like a 13/41 gear. I always run a 15 front and will swap the rear from 40 to a 42 depending upon conditions. later.

Think it's just a vent for the float bowl. Not sure really, but I wouldn't worry about it.

Hows your airbox setup? If you have the lid on, you might pull it off just to see if it clears up. I'm kinda with you on the rich main thing, at a low rpm, your probably throwing a lot of fuel, and it's just a tad behind on the air, causing the bog and when the air catches up it hits the powerband. Make sense? That's my theory at the moment anyway. Later.

ohlins are pretty nice, but they're not elkas. If you want top of the line, no bullshit, bad ass f'ing shocks that will take anything you dish out, elkas are the only way to flyyyyyyy!

You could always cap one end then blow in the other. that works from time to time.