sredish

the bouncing around of the gas in the float bowl is what's causing it to come out... when you stop, it stops bouncing and no overflow. it's just overflowing from moving around. a slight adjustment will probably take care of it.

not sure, you could just try to tweak it down a smidge... or call carbparts.com and they should be able to tell you.

by doing a WOT plug check.

check your floats. and what are you doing with a banshee on an mx track.... lol :biggrin:

Water is a necessecity to muscles and creatine is a necessity to ATP production. Creatine supplementation will not increase the peak amount of force you can generate, just the amount of time you can exercise at near maximum capacity. An increase in peak force generation, however, will come later as new muscle proteins are added in response to the greater exercise stimulus afforded by creatine supplementation. As a side effect of creatine is the potential for added weight. When I'm off my cycle of Creatine, I'll drop 5 or 6 pounds, and when I start back up, I'll gain 7 or 8. This weight will also transfer into your training. IMO, creatine is not necessary for someone working out and getting in shape, but IMO it IS necessary for someone who is building mass, who is in serious weight training and bulking. But, like any supplement, it affects everyone differently.

I train regularly. BSN Syntha 6 is probably the best 'high-end' protein you can get. Use that for shakes, then use bars, the Supreme bars rock as well as the Oh Yea bars, to help change it up. I also use Creatine, a daily vitamin (GNC Megaman) and a caffeine burner (VPX Meltdown). The Meltdown deal works, helps give me a killer sweat and pump during training and does help burn a little bit of the fat. My regimen: A Shake and a banana first thing when I get up Then 2.5 grams of Creatine in the morning, along with 2 Meltdown pills and my daily vitamin. 10am - Breakfast I'll usually have a bar between breakfast and lunch 12:30pm - lunch and 2 Meltdown pills 3pm, a shake or bar. Early evening, dinner and 2.5 grams of Creatine, 2 Meltdown pills and my daily vitamin. Sometimes I'll have a light 20g protein shake before bed (casein protein only) on workout days and between workout days, not on the weekends. On workout days, I train in the afternoon. I'll have 2 Meltdown pills and 2.5g of Creatine in the morning like normal. Then 20 min before workout, I'll have 3 of the Meltdown pills and a light light shake. Then immediately after workout, I'll have a banana and a shake or some sort of carb/protein shake, as well as the other 2.5g of Creatine. I've tried the NO supplements with no affect, their a waste IMO. There's only a few real necessary foods/supplements: Vitamins Creatine Protein Caffeine The very most important part of training is food. You HAVE to eat right, and enough to get anywhere and that includes enough Protein and the right Carbs. You can almost add 50 to 60% gains in a years time to a person who is eating right vs. one that's not. Also, the Meltdown pills are an easy way to get a regular amount of caffeine, plus they have some thermogenic effects to help you sweat and get a good pump for training. If your not super resistant to caffeine, then start slow on it and work to higher amounts. It recommends 3 a day, whether its 1 3x a day or no more than 3 at one time. I don't follow that but I have a HUGE tolerance. When I first started on Meltdown, I lost 9 pounds in 6 weeks not paying attention. After the 6 weeks, I stopped that cycle and gained back 4, then started a new cycle and have been eating more to help offset those losses. It's done a pretty good job helping me lean out, maintain and add mass.

they were joshin ya' bein a smartass.... boost bottle has ZERO affect on anything... it's just taking up space, no add'l power or response. again, it's just taking up space. run it at +4 minimum, otherwise it's not worth the effort. Depending on your compression and such, I'd go to +6. as far as the 19cc domes, it would just depend on the compress your running. I always ran around 155psi and +7 on the plate.

I've ran 4 or 5 RS in the past no probs. sucks to hear that they're having problems all of a sudden... Trail Tech has some nice self contained HID lights.... dont' take a lot of wattage... i'll check out that Vision X stuff.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...sspagenameZWD1V

I always ran mine at +7, a bit more response at that mark. oh yea, get rid of the boost bottle, it's just getting in the way. go back to the stock equalizer tube.

I ran a 45 at sea level on my 2-1 setup. yea, a DEK needle should work well. has a compression test been done on this motor after the install? +4 timing is pretty mild, although if your at the race gas line and running pump, it could be just enough to make the difference. get a compression check first and get ahold of carbparts.com for a needle. I'd also say hold on to the 190 until you make the needle change. don't want to be making a lot of changes at one time, otherwise you won't know what caused what.

yes, chances are low compression. do you know what jets you have in there? First thing to do is.... check compression. If you have anything lower than 115, tell us. If it's higher than that, then pull the carbs and tell us what jets are in there, mainly pilots in this case.

you need bigger mains. try 290s or 300s to start with and 4th clip. how does it start?

something's weird. it should run different with pipes alone, but to add porting. if it didn't change much with the porting, then I'd be suspect of the porting work, no offense. I think you should pull the jets and tell us what you have. if you are truly lean, it doesn't always run bad, but then BAM. For instance my last motor was running great, really great about 5 min. before it completely locked up... but it locked up because I smacked a valve, not jetting. Nonetheless, the fact that it runs doesn't mean all is well. Best case scenario, your leaving power on the table, worst case scenario, your riding a grenade thats about to go off.

why not try 27.5 pilots? your plugs look darker than I would've guessed running a 250 main, but not sure how you colored them. if your 1 - 1.5 hours is a mixture of idling, cruising and such, then it's of no use. as you said you were going to do, you HAVE to run a hard long WOT run to AT LEAST 5th gear to get a good reading.... run it WOT, through first, into second, all the way to at least 5th, keep it held WOT and before you have to shift into 6th, while holding it WOT, pull the clutch and kill the motor simultaneously. let it cool and check the plug right there, on the side of the highway, street, road, whatever. if you want pics, take them then because if you cruise back home to check, it'll be an inaccurate coloring. edit: oh yea, run a 40:1 mixture, no richer. 40:1 is not lean at all, 60:1 is lean and some run 80:1 and I've actually heard of some running 100:1 in their drag bikes with special 100:1 oil.

first, find out where in the throttle it is... then figure out if your lean or not and where at? a CEK would be leaner in the 1/2 to 3/4 - WOT region a DGK would leaner in the 1/8 to 1/2 throttle region i suggest you figure out exactly where you need. it... and you could be too lean causing the stumble. needles are cheap. i'd contact carbparts.com and order those two as well as an EEK (which is richer) and test them all out. keep in mind, that as you change the EEK or CEK, it's going to affect the main jet tuning, so you'll most likely or most definitely have to adjust the main a size or two with the different needles (due to where the needle affects the fueling). be patient, be persistent and pay close attention to where the problems lie in the throttle position. it will tell you.

yes, all that (but test the cylinders, not "cyclenders") and while your cleaning the carbs, tell us what pilot and main jets are in there.

it's always trying to come apart, even stock. but adding in a lot of compression (165+) will add stress exponentially, then advancing the timing doesn't help. i'd say compression is the variable we add that affects it most... but it's more or less built in...... if it's apart or will be coming apart, get it done!

if your running a 2-1, then it will be easy to check the reeds... check em. and also check compression in both sides and compare. what dajogejr suggested needs to be done also, as you could have some issues in that cylinder.

forget the boost bottle. forget the intake and reeds until you get some pipes. i'd get pipes first and foremost... best bang for the buck by far and the reeds aren't going to do squat with the stock exhaust. If you want cheap filters, go to Rocky Mountain and order the cheap K&N pods for like $40 a pop and clamp them on. i would say you should do this, in this order: pipes noss head (smaller cc domes) intake reeds timing plate (can add at anytime really) you'd be a lot happier

This was my first question.

i'd give you 1500 if you were closer

get the 35, you'll thank me later.

the graydon is the chit.... use it with a 35mm and a pod filter!

been hiding all over.... came back just to look at your avatar... :woot: