JKJK

I have a good working set of 34's for sale 175.00 shipped.

I'm glad to here your allright! I have lots of stock take off parts,I'll give ya.If i can help you out.Just let me know what you need.John

I just looked at a spare lower end i have on the bench.There is no way for that nut to get into the tranny if it is still the original size,not all chewed up.The oil passages are to small for it to enter.That nut has to be somewere in there.Keep looking you'll find it.

Very sorry to here that.I hope it's not too serious+he is ok.

Hey man,Good to here from ya.I thought you might have sold the shee+ taken up golf .

Pt mids sounds like what your looking for.I have a mint set of chrome ones with fat boy silencers,for sale.Pm me if interested.

Save up+get the 4mill mx stroker set up from Dan at Patriot.I've ridden many shee's with compairable porting.None came close to the useable power+overall performance of his set up.Currently i'm running t5's on mine+it still has mega bottom end with arm ripping topend too.Or for a little more money Dan will talk you into a 4 mill cub mx set up.That should take care of your needs+then some.

I have a complete good running motor out of a 97.pm me for details.

Sounds like a interesting project.I have a complete running motor(stock) out of my 97. That i will sell ya.Shoot me a pm for all the details,if your interested.

Mine was the same way.Even after replaceing the o ring seals.So i sanded down the mating surfaces on the mounting blocks a c-hair.Now the clamp is tighter on the shaft+the excessive play is gone.

John i have a older bent up j arm frame.I'll take a look at it today.If that section is not tweaked,I'll cut it off+send it to ya.

I have a new unopened Motion Pro tors eliminator kit for sale.It comes with everything you need including instructions.50.00 shipped.

Dan, Sorry to hear of your ordeal.Send me 25.00+shipping costs+i'll send you some old school fmf gold head pipes.

Check out the K+k website.They have a section dedicated to replacement aftermarket a arm parts.

I did a keihn carb comparison last weekend on my mx ported stroker.With 28d slide pwk's ,34 flat slide pj's,35pwk d slides.They 28's had the most snap out of the hole but fell short compaired to the 34's+35's through the mid+topend.They 34's were much more difficult to dial in+they did'nt idle to well.The 35's were the clear winner.I thought the throttle responce from either pwk was superior to the pj's.

John I have a back up cdi.i will send ya,if you'll send me one off the next shee you part out.I like to have an extra one around,just incase.

I have some head pipes only.They both will work with stock silencers.Chrome dg's in very good shape 80.00 or some old fmf golds 50.00 Prices do not include shipping.

I have some pics of them mounted.I can email them to you or someone to post.

To program it with your own custom curves you need to purchase the optional programming kit.The basic unit comes with 4 preprogrammed curves to choose from.There is no launch rev limiter options with the basic set up unless you purchase the programer kit.Do a search.There's some in depth info pertaining to the custom curvs.They also have a website www.dynaonline.com

Brad Great tip, thanks for the info.I could'nt help but notice.Your flywheel looks like it's been cut down on the circumference+the original ballance marks are still visable. Was there just not that much material removed?

I would try bending the tabs slightly on the floats,to allow more fuel in the bowls.Even if they are within spec.

I would check the float hights.It sounds like your confident it's a fuel starvation prop.The choke tube feeds of the bottom of the bowl so it allways has fuel.If the floats were set to high,their will not be enough fuel available to create a smooth transition+it will act like your describing.

Take it apart+you will see what i'm talking about.It's been a while but i remember their's a washer or spacer with a hollowed out side,that is forced over+around the c-clip when tightend.It looks like all you have to do is swap the spacer to the other side.

I also found the directions more confusing than helpful.After trying the many different options. I put the nut on the same way as in your pic..With the spacers arranged differently than you have it.So that when you tighten it the concave part of the spacer completly surrounds the c-clip.

The revs will give you a bit more rev compared to the mids.You will loose some mid pull but not that much.The power will be smooth+constant with no spikes from bottom to top.In my opinion they don't have nearly as much over rev as t5's.Compared to the t5's you sacrifice upper rpm pull for the smoothness in the power delivery.