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Armpit of Wisconsin
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atv's,guns,atv's,guns,atv's,guns,......
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My Banshee (optional)
2003 Black and Red Banshee FMF pipes w/turbine II's K&N filter Trinity 2 into1 w/33pwk carb Maxxis Razor II's Ugly 5.6 IMS tank for the long rides
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I've been running the trinity 2-1 for over 4 years using a 33pwk. I can't comment on Graydons since I've never used them, I can understand the theory on the longer in-take track tho. I ride on Wisconsin atv trails which are usually sandy and sometimes twisty. There are no sand dunes that can compare to out west. I can't remember what the jetting is since I don't normally have to adjust it much except for the air screw or for more then 20degree temp change in fall, for 70 to 90+ degreee days, I don't change my jetting. I like the single carb setup for the riding I do because of the control I have in slower trail sections, I do not have to feather the clutch, my clutchs last a long time. Now some will cry about using a 33pwk, but for my riding it works. Better air flow thru carb at anything below half throttle openings. To really help that out, I fab'd my own vane at the carb intake to concentrate airflow at the smaller throttle openings, it's soldered in and has no effect at wide open thottle. The 33pwk may not be the best choice when compared to dual 28's or larger, but drag racing or wide open runs are a very small part of my riding. I can still blow away modded 400's or stock 450's. If I had areas where I could run wide open or drag race more, I'd go back to a dual carb set-up. I have never regretted going this route, my last banshee was set up for drag racing and it didn't work for the riding opportunities we have.
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RGDRUM, If your riding open sand, forget the single carb set-up. A lot depends on where/what kind of riding your doing. Single carb works best for trail riding, not drag or sand riding. I use a 33mm trinity with vanes for my 2 into 1 set-up, contrary to what some think, it works very well in slower riding situations. I would never say I could keep up with a banshee with larger then stock carbs in open areas.
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I like using the Permatex "Ultra Copper", it's a high temp silicone. Clean off the areas using brake cleaner (or whatever you prefer), spooge the silicone on, install pipes ( I also do the joint at the silencer), wipe off excess, then allow to dry for a day or two. Two days is better. You really want a good seal so your not sucking in oxygen, could make your bike run lean.
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Sudco or carb parts warehouse will have them, sudco will have a min to purchase. Either one, your better off calling them trying to order via internet. Shipping is gonna get ya no matter what, so order some other needles or mains to try (sudco website has a chart to find leaner and richer needles)and offset the cost.
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I've used both oils, and both will work fine in a Banshee. The HP2 is a little cleaner burning. I use HP2 in my KTM dirtbike, have had no problems with the power valve. I also like how I can easily see if the fuel is mixed with the HP2. In My Banshee I use Amsoil, been using it in my atv's for 5 years. This topic can lead to flamming, which I want no part in. I only suggest that whatever you pick, for whatever reasons (price, availability,....) just stick with it. One less issue when dealing with future problems.
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I've never ridden a banshee with one, but I have a KTM with a Magnura hyd clutch. It's a one finger pull that never changes, does take some getting used to on feathering or just plain letting out the clutch.
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I've been running Fattys w/turbine coreII for 4 years now. Trails I ride, spark arrestors are important and so is noise. Not sure if PC's offer a spark arrestor, know that they sound nice. As said t5's are a good choice, could be more costly to keep the noise down with the add on spark arrestor/silencer. But they work excellent.
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The 33 and 35 run pretty much the same jetting wise, like most carb situations on banshee's, there are differences in what everyone runs. I'm about the same as you for elevation and temp, I run 180 main middle clip on needle(I forget which needle I have in there now), 42 pilot. You might do well to start at 200 main and 48-50 pilot. Do WOT plug chops. This has been discussed so much that you may not get much response, so do a search.
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Things made to cut wood, have no trouble cutting fingers. Seen lots of accidents and have had a few of my own, they suck. Years ago, a co-worker was making some small mouldings on the shaper, the piece shattered and shoved part of it back at him, it went thru all 4 fingers on one hand between the muscle and bone. Had to cut him off the machine with a hand saw and run him to the hospital, something you'll never forget. Took him most of the year to recover. Hope you don't have any nerve damage, and hope it doesn't hold up your riding!
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Whos tired of wrking for just 30 bucks an hour?
Wallynut replied to Bansheeman1121's topic in General Banshee Discussion
It's a wonder that he gets re-elected. The people of Arizona must be proud of their RINO (Republican in Name Only). -
Pull the castle nut off, pull off the hub, the splines are what keeps the hub from spinning on the axle. If you have been riding like that for awhile, you may have ruined the splines on either/both the hub or axle.
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people want more immigrants?
Wallynut replied to sweetshee4312's topic in General Banshee Discussion
It also has a lot to do with getting votes, politicians see the immigrants as a large voting base. As for taxes, the people hiring them now are the ones not paying the taxes, they'er just pocketing the money. Don't hear about too many illegals filing for tax returns either,since a lot of them don't make that much (low income people get most if not all thiers back at the end of the year). There is no good solution to this problem since it has been ignored for so long. Need to stop anymore from coming in illegally, then we can start to figure out how to deal with what we have. -
What needle do you have? The 190-175 mains are the range to see about working in. You might want to try the old trick of pulling out the choke to see if worse or better. You could alsotry moving the needle to see what effect there is. When you said that you played around with the air screw, was there any effect at all? I would think that you should have seen some kind of change from 1/4 to 3-1/2, one end or the other should have shown something. Like scuba147 said, once dialed in, you won't have much need to adjust anything but the airscrew.
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Thats all ya got? You could have at least come up with a story of how you used to be able to, but it won't now because your tire pressure seems to be too high.
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trinity 2:1 just came in the mail, need setup help
Wallynut replied to RMX250DB's topic in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
Your probably gonna be on the rich side there. Which needle did they send with it?