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Motor city banshee curves Envoyé de mon SM-G965W en utilisant Tapatalk

Here you go. And the inside view. That was a horrible pass, spun so bad the shift light didn't go out on the shift. trapped 173mph

TORS was deleted by previous owner. Parking brake has been unplugged via the connector under the fuel tank. I am considering one of "South Texas Banshees" wire harnesses which has the tors and parking brake wiring eliminated. I finally gave up and took the banshee to the bike shop. They are supposed to go through it and let me know what is going on with it. Will reply to this when I hear back from them. Hoping that will be today or tomorrow...fingers crossed.

I’ve ran the Rad’s, VF2’s, VF3’s, & VF4’s. The Rad’s are not bad and have a really nice block that always seals up. But they won’t support the bigger aftermarket cylinders like all the V Force stuff.

On any two stroke, you’ll be hard pressed to get it to come on hard before 5k. Most of the mods you have help, but maybe a pipe change to SLP’s could help, but not much. The other option to really get it snappy would be to switch to race fuel and give it some more compression and timing.

Midrange detonation is a thing, but is harder to notice and I don't think causes much damage. If the midrange gets worse , gets hot, or feels like it is fighting itself drop the timing in that range and see if it improves But is a little more forgiving than at WOT. You'll need to test your curve while riding. I adjust a degree or two at a time and switch between curves and decide if I can tell a difference. Just don't get greedy with the timing unless you are prepared to rebuild the motor.

Similar Envoyé de mon SM-G965W en utilisant Tapatalk

The ignition was $170ish. My bike was originally point ignition so i had to buy coils, pickups, rotor, etc. I spent right at $300 on my conversion. Worth every penny IMO. Lots of features!

Thanks everyone. I don't want to get too far off topic. After all i didn't start this thread. Maybe I'll start another thread for all my toys. To get it back on track, here is a video of the ignition working with the banshee map.

So, I'm not an expert, but basically I run flat timing from just above idle to through the dead spot in the power band. You can extend the off idle ramp up a little to smooth the throttle off idle. I keep raising the timing here until I can't tell a difference. In my case I hit the limits of the Dynatek Ignition at 27*. Just as the pipe comes on I drop the timing to stock and add back until I can't tell a difference again. Then at peak power I add until I have signs of light deto then back the timing back down a degree or two. After peak power I drop the timing to about 5 degrees to allow for increased overrev. The dropping of the timing after peak power transfers heat from the cylinder to the pipe allowing for a broader powerband. I mainly run curve 3, but will run 2 sometimes if its super hot out or bad fuel. My setup is a Pump Gas Ported 421 Serval with 24cc domes, PWK 33s, and SBIF Shearers. Throttle response is pretty good and I can overrev to about 11.3K to 11.5K rpm in 6th. This curve hasn't been dyno'd but I've been happy with it for the last 2 years or so. I could probably hold a little more timing between 10-11K but this has been a safe setup and I like it better than the stock curve or a +4.