ONTHAPIPE

I run t-5 pipes with an open box and a K&N. I took the stock arrestors and cut about an inch off of each pipe and it clamped right onto the t-5 headpipes. I then took out the endcaps and the bike ran strong. These arrestors look like the turbine core inside, and they have a USFS approved stamp. It does run better with the toomey silencers, but overall it ran really good and it seemed to hit pipe quicker, with a small loss in peak. It actually worked out really good for the trails we where riding.

Thanks for all the advice. I think I am going to get the cub and keep the stock crank. Where is a good place to have it trued and welded? Also I was still wondering what is a good dome size that would take advantage of a 50/50 blend of race gas and 92 pump gas?

Is The cub really the most power in an aftermarket cylinder? What about the T-Rex and the Vitos Monoblock???? Also....Why does stroking the motor, Which would increase the displacement and up the power, make it more reliable?? It seems that the farther you deviated from the stock design the less reliable it would be??

I have looked into the porting and it runs like 500 bucks for a dune/drag port. I am building this bike mainly for sand mountain, and it feels like you could always use more power in that deep dry sand. I just cant see paying that much for a port job, when for 900 you could buy a cub. I understand there is other things to buy for the install, but there is for the port job as well. And also, I know that t-5's are not considered drag pipes, but my god, you make it sound like the cub wont even work at all with them. I am not trying to run a de-tuned cub motor, I am just trying to get one going for around $1500. I am sure it will be "pipey" and have a "powerband" but WTF thats why I bought a banshee and not a 450. I also read on here that it would be very hard for anybody to do a port job that would make as much power as a cub right from the box. I am not trying to argue, "I just wanna go fast" I dont want to spend three grand.........p.s. I have the tools knolwledge and friends to do any of the tear down/install work down to the crank.

You posted a dyno sheet on your motor and I had a few questions. What was your exact setup for that dyno run.....you said you had t-5's and stock carbs, was the crank stock or stroked? Was the bore stock or the 68 mill? I would be very happy with hp numbers in the 80's and I want to build a cub. Also Who makes the best 68 mil pistons if I do go that route, My gut tells me to keep it at stock bore so I can use Yamaha pistons for reliabilty. I have ridden/rebuilt many motorcycles and I am less than happy with wiseco pistons. How many ponies difference are we talking between stock bore and 68 mill? Also is it absolutely necesary to true and weld the crank...I dont want to split the bottem end if I dont have to? One last question...What is an apropriate dome for getting the most out of 50/50 110 race gas and 92 octane? I truely appreciate any help anybody has.

I want to install a temp gauge on my bike and I was wondering what is the best type of temp sending unit to use, and where and how to mount the sending unit?? any pictures would be great

My friend had the itp wheels that look like a four spoke pattern and a chunk broke off the lip on the first ride. It was very rocky but they were brand new.

i am just kidding ..........starter fluid is a last resort man.......sorry i was being an ass

spray some napa starting fluid directly in the intake. Kick it over and it should start. If that does not work try some R/C car fuel preferably high nitro content.

I am pretty sure that cheetah cubs are coated.....maybe someone can back me up in that.

Can you eventually sleeve a cub if you ended up scoring the nikasil bad?

Would a cheetah cub with no porting or cleanup at all, at stock stroke, beat the hell out of a $400-$500 port job on brand new stock cylinders? Also is there that much of a power difference between the stock cheetah size and the 68 mil? One more......Can you run the stck head on the stock size cheetah? Does a cool head really keep the motor that much cooler? Oh yea.....right now it's a 2006 all stock with T-5's alba needles with 300 mains, and an intake kit with a cone K&N.

How much does a good port job cost? If I got the port job, then would the carbs be justifiable?

I have a 2006 that is stock except for t-5's and an alba intake with a K&N cone. Would I see a greater increase in performance with 34 mill carbs on the stock crank, or a 4 mil stroke with the stock carbs? I can really only afford one or the other right now. I plan on getting a cub one day but not for a while. I am building the bike for sand, but I also do some occasional trail riding. I found the Keihin 34's on alba for $260 plus about $150 for the intake. Thats about $400 total. The 4mill cranks aren't that much more and I have access to tools and help that can help me perform any motor work needed to install the crank. Any other ideas or plans would be great.