BenBB Posted May 30, 2007 Report Share Posted May 30, 2007 Allright it's taken way too long heh, but I finally got everything in yesterday and got to take them out last night...for like 10 minutes before it got completely dark. This weekend I'll take them back out and get a better ride report after I get a chance to dial everything in just right; last night I only had time to roughly set the preload on both sets of new fronts and my rear (Works did a heart transplant on it). Here's the pix: Brandon's '01 before (with front Razrs, stock shocks, a-arms, spindles, hubs, calipers, master cyl): Brandon's '01 after (front HD's, YFZ450 a-arms, spindles, hubs, calipers, master cyl, Works shocks): My '96 and Brandon's '01 after: Quick ride impressions: Bear in mind it was a short one, and we haven't ridden since the last race on February 18th heh. Way outta shape. Anyway we both thought that the steering effort was a little higher; shee REALLY wants to go straight. I don't remember where our steering stabilizers were set last so I need to back those off, and I still need to get the toe-in set right (I just had 'em "close"), but first ride it took some effort to turn. Brandon is going from completely stock and I'm going from Ricky Stator +2 a-arms. It feels to me exactly like the time I tried setting my camber to zero (from about 4 degrees or so), which would make sense since these arms have a set camber, but just looking at the pics I'd guess they had at least 2 degrees. Shock action was smooth with no surprises, felt a whole lot like the Works A-T Steelers I had before, Brandon said they were a whole lot better than the stockers and soaked up several unexpected hits like nothin'. Shock specs: I had Works build these using their measurement worksheet for custom applications, and using YFZ450 a-arms AND spindles I got 16-5/8" eye to eye extended, 11-1/4" eye to eye compressed, and 5-3/8" of shock travel (which translates to roughly 10" of wheel travel). I told 'em I had about a grand to spend for two sets, at the very least I wanted what I already had (steel bodies, triple rate springs, remote rezzys). For $948 shipped I got two pairs of steel body, triple rate springs, remote rezzys, 5/8" shafts and threaded preload. Gotta live without adjustable compression & rebound for now. List price was $659 each but I got a 30% sponsorship discount. Good lookin' shocks though, and that shaft is huge: Other shit: I actually almost broke even on this project, although I did sell a few more parts than just what got replaced (like my TT tires & rims, swaybar, a set of PTR pipes, and some Blaster parts on ebay that I was amazed I got what I did for). On the '01 I sold Brandon's stock a-arms, DG a-arm guards, shocks, hubs/rotors, front brake master cylinder, and right-hand spindle & caliper (the left one was bent, never noticed until I pulled it) for about $300 on here and ebay. From yfzcentral.com I bought a set of YFZ450 a-arms for $120, spindles for $40, hubs for $70, and a pair of front 2-piston calipers and a master cylinder for $50; also I got a set of billet tie rods from Noss for $46, and the Works shocks set me back $474, so a total out of $800. The difference was $500 on his, for +2 a-arms, new triple rate shocks with rezzys, 2-piston calipers, newer front master cylinder (possibly better I dunno), and hopefully tougher spindles, that ain't bad considering I spent $345 for shocks and $485 for +2 a-arms on mine a few years ago (think I sold the stock stuff for about $200 so the difference was about $630). It looks good though, and so far does just what it should: On my '96 I sold my Ricky Stator a-arms, Works A-T Steelers, stock spindles, hubs/rotors, calipers and master cylinder for about $600 on here and on ebay. I snagged a set of YFZ450 a-arms, spindles, and hubs/rotors off yfzcentral for $150 and a complete YFZ450 front brake setup (two calipers, master cylinder, and stainless steel lines) off ebay for $106. I already had Tusk Honda style tie rods & ends for +2 a-arms (like RMA sells) so I didn't need the billet rods. Add the $474 for shocks and total out was $730; difference of $130. Heck yes Kip! Especially considering I broke both stock Banshee spindles last year, I hope like hell the aluminum YFZ spindles are tougher, they look it. Anyway like I said I sold a bunch of stuff I had in the garage for around $400, and made up the remaining couple hundred from the tax return heh. Anyway this weekend I'll take 'em back out and monkey around with the settings some more and post it up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
375hp banshees Posted May 30, 2007 Report Share Posted May 30, 2007 why yfz spindles & hubs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted May 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2007 why yfz spindles & hubs Because I got roughly 10" of wheel travel with YFZ spindles vs. about 7" of wheel travel with Banshee spindles...and unfortunately the hubs don't interchange so I had to got with YFZ hubs too. Earlier thread here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
375hp banshees Posted May 30, 2007 Report Share Posted May 30, 2007 Because I got roughly 10" of wheel travel with YFZ spindles vs. about 7" of wheel travel with Banshee spindles...and unfortunately the hubs don't interchange so I had to got with YFZ hubs too. Earlier thread here. good to know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoostRocket Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 looks good man. it looks like the bike sits higher with those works shocks than they do with the 450 shocks but imo thats a good thing. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterlocal22 Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 Ben your set up looks great. I cant waite to hear how the test runs go. I should have my front end done by this weekend as well and hopefully some test time too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagonz Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 looks awesome man, would more shocks be able to be made, because thats what i want :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted May 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 looks good man. it looks like the bike sits higher with those works shocks than they do with the 450 shocks but imo thats a good thing. :thumbsup: Thanks, and yes I think she sits level at least, although I like the front a little higher for desert whoops but I need to mess with the sag. This one didn't come out very well but at least you can see the profile: Ben your set up looks great. I cant waite to hear how the test runs go. I should have my front end done by this weekend as well and hopefully some test time too. Right on!! Hope you get it together and get a chance to ride this weekend too, let us know how yours does. looks awesome man, would more shocks be able to be made, because thats what i want :thumbsup: Yes Works has all the info, or you could have 'em made by whoever else you wanted; I'm sure Elka, Axis, etc. would have no prob building them, just make sure they get all the measurements they need to set it up right. I've had good luck with Works and recommend them, especially if you're on limited fundage like myself heh, but that doesn't mean you couldn't go with someone else (in other words I ain't a salesman). I do have a sponsorship deal with them though, and have run their stuff to hell and back desert racing here in NM so I can say they make a good product, at a good price, and have great service. That said, you can call Works at 818-701-1010 and ask for either Darrel (sales) or Sandy (engineering, and it's a guy not a girl heh) or Donna (order status) or Ray (sponsorships). I emailed the sheet below to Darrel but can't find his addy, but they should have everything on file under my name, Ben Boal. Like I said above mine had a list price of $659 a pair, but you could get them for less than that without rezzys and threaded preload (I wouldn't get anything less than triple rates), or you could spend more for Pro Series piggybacks, Pro G series with dual lines or Black Widows. MAKE SURE you tell them to send 30mm wide bushings for the lower mounts; Banshees use 32mm wide upper & lower mounts but the YFZ450 a-arm mounts are 30mm. Here's the custom shock sheet I used, and the instructions on how to get the measurements in case you want to double check it: Usually a 2-week lead time on them, and if there's any problems with them they'll make it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeyfz Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 when i installed my 450 arms and shocks my bike was slammed to the ground . so now im runnign 20's in the back and 22's up front. IS your works shocks taller then 450 shocks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted May 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 when i installed my 450 arms and shocks my bike was slammed to the ground . so now im runnign 20's in the back and 22's up front. IS your works shocks taller then 450 shocks? Yes, I don't know for sure what YFZ450 shocks are eye to eye, Works' price list shows 15-3/4" overall, but mine are 16-5/8" eye to eye... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LIM_Whiteboy4life Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 (edited) So 16 5/8" eye to eye is a ideal length for aftermarket shocks for a YFZ A-arm swaped shee and compressed 11"?... (is that with the weight on the shocks?) this will be good info when i get my elka rec's made for my YFZ arms. I will do the measurement and fitment also. Im only looking at spending under 600 for shocks, and tie rods. Looks good man.. sits much higher than just a slaped together piece. Edited May 31, 2007 by LIM_Whiteboy4life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted May 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 (edited) So 16 5/8" eye to eye is a ideal length for aftermarket shocks for a YFZ A-arm swaped shee and compressed 11"?... (is that with the weight on the shocks?) this will be good info when i get my elka rec's made for my YFZ arms. I will do the measurement and fitment also. Im only looking at spending under 600 for shocks, and tie rods. Looks good man.. sits much higher than just a slaped together piece. Yes I measured 16-5/8" eye to eye IF you've got YFZ450 spindles & hubs; with Banshee spindles & hubs the arms can't extend as far (by a few inches at the wheel) and you'll have a bitch of a time getting the shocks mounted, not to mention they prolly ain't gonna work right. You'll want to take a different measurement for dimension "D" and "E" on the sheet above if you're sticking with Banshee spindles & hubs (I think I had 16-3/8" eye to eye with Banshee spindles & hubs), and either way ya might call Elka and see if they want any other weights/dimensions and double check my numbers. But yes that 11-1/4" is what I get eye to eye compressed like they show in the last pic with a 2x4 under the frame and the valve cores removed from the tires... Edited May 31, 2007 by BenBB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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