Splitting the Cases

[BigRed350x]

I am NOT a professional builder. These images are only to give you an idea of what is involved in a tear down. THIS IS NOT A MANUAL!! GO BUY A DAMN CLYMER IF YOU DON'T HAVE ONE!!! I am not responsible for anything you jack up while trying to follow these pictures.

 

I know people are going to bug me about so... I don't clean my engine before i tear it down for this one and simple reason: I have a heated Diesel Blast Bath tank at work. I can get all the dirt inside I want, because I am going to clean all the parts before I put them back together. If you don't have something to wash your parts in, take your bike to the car wash and pressure wash your engine or something before you work on it. I don't care if dirt gets in mine since i am either replacing everything or cleaning it in an automotive parts washer. I am replacing any bearings that do happen to get dirt in them , so don't worry about it.

 

 

Here are the pictures and instructions....

 

This first picture is just to show how my frame was made a little stronger up by the bars. This is a really weak point on these frames.

 

Here's the Engine on my nifty home-made bench. lol This is with carbs already off, and most of the fluids drained out. I prefer to work on my engine out of the frame, some of these things are easier to do in frame, but I am a big guy and don't have a high enough lift to have my bike at chest height, so I take the whole thing out right from the start.

 

This is the head, the first thing I take off. Just work backwards from 10 to 1 losening each a little bit at a time until its lose.

 

Here the head is lose and I'm taking it off.

 

Looking down at the cylinders / pistons

 

Remove your head gasket

 

Next, i take off what's left of the intakes... Losen those 4 allen head bolts on each side and pull it all off.

 

Next get that stupid hose out of the way.

Edited February 19, 2006 by BigRed350x

[BigRed350x]

Now losen each cylinder one at a time so you can remove the cylinder from around the pistons. Remember to losen in a cris-cross pattern.

 

i like to use a really long extension to get to the ones down by the exhaust.

 

After its lose, gently lift the cylinder off the piston. If its tight on the base gasket, smack it with a rubber mallet a couple times.

 

 

 

 

 

Do the same to the other cylinder...

[BigRed350x]

Next you will want to remove the pistons from the rods.

 

I just use my nifty fix-it-all gerber tool to remove the circlips that hold the wristpin.

 

Here's the circlip

 

Tap out the wristpin with a screwdriver or some other similar instrument. It should come out real easy unless you blew up your top end, then it will be a bitch.

 

 

Lift the piston up off the wristpin bearing.

[BigRed350x]

Just slide the wristpin bearing out of the rod. These come right out with no trouble at all.

 

Do the other side...

 

 

Now you should just have the rods sitting there...

 

Here are the pistons. Notice the pattern of the carbon on the top. This is how your pistons should look once your bike is set up right. You can see right where the transfers are blowing and the exhaust is pulling the burned gasses out based on the pattern on the top of each piston. Thse pistons came out of my bike that had approx. 75 hours of HARD riding on them. I would have no problem putting these back in another bike with a new set of rings.

 

 

 

[BigRed350x]

Ok onto the clutch. This scares a lot of people, but it is really a simple job. There isn't much to the clutch on these bikes. But if you don't get it right, it will haunt you.

 

Pull the clutch cover bolts... My water pump cover is already off in these pics...

 

I had to use my super tool again to get the cover off the gasket. (it was stuck, but came right off with a little help.

 

I move my engine to the edge of my desk to drain the rest of the oil.

 

You can tell by the color of my oil that my clutch needs to be replaced. The gray color means something ont he clutch is slipping and/or burning and/or rubbing off into the oil. it's not a milky consistancy, that's how i know it's not coolant in the oil. I also run some different additives to my oil that will change the way it looks if its contaminated at all, when I get water in my oil it will turn red.

 

Here is the clutch cover taken off...

 

Here is looking at the clutch.

[BigRed350x]

Here's a side shot of the clutch assembly.

 

First, losen that little phillips head screw in there. Hold the lock nut with a wrench and losen the screw with your screwdriver.

 

OK, now since i do everything on a bench and not in the frame, i do this to keep the engine from turning over when i work on it. It's hard on your rods, so only do this when you have to keep something from moving, then take it back out.

 

Next, take out that little nut in there, and the washer behind it.

 

Now go up on top of the case and remove the little bracket that holds the clutch arm in place.

 

 

Now remove the clutch arm. It just pulls right out.

 

Now losen the six bolts that hold your clutch springs. Again, do these in a criss cross pattern.

[BigRed350x]

Losen these a little bit at a time, to keep your clutch level across all the plates to avoid damage.

 

 

 

Next, slide off the outer hub.

 

 

Here is with the hub removed and you can see the clutch plates.

 

Since i am replacing my clutch i don't really care about what shape its in, so I am just going to remove it as a whole. So i just grab the whole stack and pull it right out. There are metal and fiber plates in there. i will go over how to install the clutch back in when I do the re-assemble pictures later.

 

 

[BigRed350x]

Here you can see the inner and outer hubs.

 

Slide the adjustment bolt/nut/carrier thingy out. It will come right out.

 

 

 

 

 

This as far as i got tonight before my light burned out. There is a small ball bearing behind that adjust bolt/nut/thingy so watch and make sure that it doens't fall out when you pull that part out. i will get more pictures tomarrow as I continue the tear down.

[BigRed350x]

You will either need the special yamaha tool (gay) or air imapact tools to get that big nut off of there. I will continue all this tomarrow or the next day for you all. I will do the flywheel first thing tomarrow for you. That is a really simple task. Then I will jump back over the other side to show how to remove all the shift linkage, shift star, idler gear, kick starter gears, etc.

 

Stay Tuned.

 

I will just ADD to this post with the work I do each so, I WON'T be creating a new post for each day, so make sure you check back to this post tomarrow night or Sunday morning for the next little bit.

 

- Jared

 

If anyone wants better pictures of anything along here, tell me and i will get them. I will also be doing a re-assembly walk-through as well.

[Guest nightmare]

Thanks big red. I am as interested as chase is on this. I am getting ready to do a clutch for the first time. You took the fear out of it.

[BigRed350x]

Thanks big red. I am as interested as chase is on this. I am getting ready to do a clutch for the first time. You took the fear out of it.

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Keep in mind that this is just removal. Installation is a lot more critical, since you have to have the clutch plates aligned right. There is a certain way you have to put the plates in, or it won't grab right.

[ogre03]

Compliments to RED on his information. It's great he's trying to help everyone out. Can someone delete or at least move chases comments though? BIGRED put so much effoert into making a "how to" thread for everyone and you have chase poping up every other post. Just a thought, good goin BIGRED, nice to see someone thinking of others

[Big Blue]

Good info, looks like it time for a new basket also.

[wesw]

good pic

 

the only thing i would have done was wash the motor off and the case so you dont get dirt and shit into it. but i guess you can clean it up when its all apart.

[Turbobanshee_kid]

great pic's