Justintoxicated Posted October 10, 2005 Report Share Posted October 10, 2005 (edited) Ok so I decided that 2 MR16 IR 55 watt bulbs (Equivalant to 80 Watt standard MR16) and 2 35 watt MR 16 IR 30 watt bulbs (equivilant to 50 watt standard MR16) just was not going to be enough light. Plus I might want to run a Blender, Cigarette Lighter, Air Compressor etc from the banshee lol.... so here some pics on my conversion in progress... I have all the hard parts done, all the stock wires are hook up and functional for DC, Stator should charge the battery while riding... Sorry this pic is still not available Blurry picture of battery box, (is actualy a deep red with sparkle). Thanks to You Know Who You Are on this forum. Nakid Banshee with wire harness finished. (Harness not Zip-tied into place in this pic) Battery box, distro block and lighted switch Switches Wired for illumination Switches mounted into radiator grill Any Questions? Things to do. - Add plug for wires to ensure easy radiator cover removal - Figure out how to clean up wire near radiator cover (Plan in grogress) - Tidy up factory harness (the wires in middle of engine in the pics.) Everything wired (so far except for underlighting LED and Taillight LED regulation box) Edited October 12, 2005 by Justintoxicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 10, 2005 Report Share Posted October 10, 2005 damn thats a lot of wires..post pics of all your lights and blender hooked up when done... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted October 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2005 (edited) It looks like alot but not too bad actually, plus you can't see hardly anything with the rear plastics on. Figure 5 power wires (one to each switch) Power wire from Battery to switch, Power wire from switch to Distro block. And a Power wire fromt eh distro block to stock harness. One thing I liked about the mod is the stator ground and case ground are both connected to the Distro block, so This should help to ensure the engine case is grounded to the frame. Looks much cleaner IRL, cause few wires are not plugged in yet...But yea more pics coming. As I find time to work on it. The MR16 HID's have not been released yet but come out this month...So for the first few dune trips I will be running the hallogens off the battery. On the bright side, no more imming lights when poping over the top of a dune at night Edited October 10, 2005 by Justintoxicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted October 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 pics back up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98bonerSTOCKshee Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 are all these wires hot? if so you could save alittle by running 1 wire to the front then just looping over to the next light then the next and so on... Just an idea, you'd only have one plug to worry about disconnecting to remove the rad. shroud... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted October 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 (edited) are all these wires hot? Edited October 13, 2005 by Justintoxicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyBoy Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 Couldn't you just have used a capacitor to kick them off? Does your stator charge the battery? And why so many switches? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted October 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 (edited) Couldn't you just have used a capacitor to kick them off? Does your stator charge the battery? And why so many switches? 425172[/snapback] Not sure about a cap since HIDs tend to draw alot of current at start up, the Battery shoudl smoth out the ac to dc conversion much better than a cap alone. But there more. The main idea is to stop the lights from going out when at low RPM (Cap would have trouble here since they are only made to store power for a slip second.) Plus HID's are not made to be turned on and off, so I think it would be ruff on the lights. I used the large battery because it had better capacity, so I can flip on my underlighting, or tail light while sitting at the top of olds or whatever dune and not get run over by dune buggies... So I wanted it to be able to turn on with the bike off... 5 switches. 1 switch will controll each HID 1 for turning my underlighting on and off. Factory switch will only controll the taillight. I may also add another switch later to turn my whip light on and off if I ever get around to wiring one up. Yes teh stator charges the Battery all day long. Edited October 12, 2005 by Justintoxicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallrat Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 Dammit Justin you beat me. Jennifer forwarded me the email about us getting slipped into the pre-order list (nice!). Hopefully that works out. Looks good man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted October 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 (edited) Dammit Justin you beat me. Edited October 12, 2005 by Justintoxicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98bonerSTOCKshee Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 Justintoxicated did you do the stator conversion yourself, just wondering.. When I got my Ricky Stator he told me how to float the wire to convert... Maybe you could share the info with these guys... I would but it's your thread... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted October 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 Justintoxicated did you do the stator conversion yourself, just wondering.. When I got my Ricky Stator he told me how to float the wire to convert... Maybe you could share the info with these guys... I would but it's your thread... 425361[/snapback] Well on the old ricky stator you just isolate the black wire after unscrewing it fromt eh stator plate... Ont he new one the process is more complicated and since the old style cases bad spark on some banshees (like mine) Ricky Stator replaced it and said he would do the floating for me. The new one has a 10 ohm charging coil instead of whatever my old one had 38 ohms or so...I can't explain how to do it cause I did not need to do this part... It varies from stator to stator. You float the ground on his new stator like wyou would on the stock one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 (edited) oh shit, a battery huh? so you gonna get some flip down screens and shit yo? hey justin, whats floating the ground mean? Edited October 13, 2005 by gimmeabeer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98bonerSTOCKshee Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 hey justin, whats floating the ground mean? 425547[/snapback] not justin but here's some of the emails I got from Ricky Stator about the subject: chad with our stator you simply lift the ground and run 2 wires to a rectifier.regulator and then 2 wires from rec/reg go to the battery and then you have a battery being charged hope that helps you thanks-ricky ....................................................................................... chad there is the 4 pin connector-disregard do you now have 2 yellows or 1 yellow wire and there will be a black some time ago we use to tie a black (ground) to a yellow and the other yellow plugged directly into the stock harness if you have 2 yellows to float you simply take the yellow with the black apart and use the black as the ground as before and the yellow is now floated--allowing both yellows minus the black to feed into a rectifier/regulator for charging a batttery let me know wassup thanks-ricky .................................................................... chad if you have 1 single yellow and 1 single black it goes down like this there is a wire that is grounded to the stator with a screw atop the stator-4mm screw take this screw out and connect a wire to it and run out to where the other yellow is and now you have 2 yeelows (if you used yellow) and they would go into a rectifier/regulator for charging the battery make sure to insulate that connection so as not to ground out and toast the stator let me know if we can help more thanks-ricky .................................................................... this is my favorite. chad no sweat! let me know if you need any help....even with other people's junk we give advise too thanks-ricky basically you undue the ground that's screwed in the stator, splice it to a new wire and run it back out the same path as the orginal wire, then you need a 12v recitifier just to keep from overcharging the battery.. These are the lighting circuit at no time do you need to mess with the other wires leading to the bulk plug its for the ignition.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted October 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 (edited) not justin but here's some of the emails I got from Ricky Stator about the subject: chad with our stator you simply lift the ground and run 2 wires to a rectifier.regulator and then 2 wires from rec/reg go to the battery and then you have a battery being charged hope that helps you thanks-ricky ....................................................................................... chad there is the 4 pin connector-disregard do you now have 2 yellows or 1 yellow wire and there will be a black some time ago we use to tie a black (ground) to a yellow and the other yellow plugged directly into the stock harness if you have 2 yellows to float you simply take the yellow with the black apart and use the black as the ground as before and the yellow is now floated--allowing both yellows minus the black to feed into a rectifier/regulator for charging a batttery let me know wassup thanks-ricky .................................................................... chad if you have 1 single yellow and 1 single black it goes down like this there is a wire that is grounded to the stator with a screw atop the stator-4mm screw take this screw out and connect a wire to it and run out to where the other yellow is and now you have 2 yeelows (if you used yellow) and they would go into a rectifier/regulator for charging the battery make sure to insulate that connection so as not to ground out and toast the stator let me know if we can help more thanks-ricky .................................................................... this is my favorite. chad no sweat! let me know if you need any help....even with other people's junk we give advise too thanks-ricky basically you undue the ground that's screwed in the stator, splice it to a new wire and run it back out the same path as the orginal wire, then you need a 12v recitifier just to keep from overcharging the battery.. These are the lighting circuit at no time do you need to mess with the other wires leading to the bulk plug its for the ignition.. 425558[/snapback] sounds right, the first one describes the old style ricky stator (the one I had replaced) The second I'm not sure if that is for the new stators of not, but I don't think it is, because he said I would actualy have to mess with the ends of the coil in order to float the ground on it. But Like I said offered to do it to the new stator for me so I took him up on the offer... Mine came like this. (not sure exactly how his newest stators generaly come setup) 2 yellow wires, both attached to opposite ends of the lighting coil. and a black wire connected to the the screw in the stator. (ground) so the 2 yellows run to the the rectifier's (by trailtech) 2 yellow wiers and I ran the black one to the ground on the distro block. I'm pretty sure this is correct. I don't think the black wire is really needed for me (I believe he added it so I could plug it into the voltage rectifiers ground) but I figured I would ground this extra wire into the block so that the motor would be grounded to the frame (block also grounds to the frame) and ran a seperate ground wire from the block to the stock harness and to the rectifiers ground.. I'm also going to connect up the stock harnesses ground so it will be grounded in 3 places (don't care too much about ground loops on the banshee frame. No Flat pannels for the banshee, b ut maybe one of those electric coolers to go on back? Still need to verify the crarging system is working correctly...Need to finish up and get the bike back together the rest of the way. Edited October 13, 2005 by Justintoxicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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