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Plugs, start switch, octane booster...


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Couple of questions...

 

1. I bought spark plugs labeled BR8ES. I think these are the wrong ones because I have older ones labeled BP8ES and B8ES and so on.... So once and for all, what plugs do I need for running a Noss Head, 19cc domes, FMF pipes, at 540 ft above sea level?

 

2. I just got the shee together, and wanted to test it to make sure it starts. I didnt have any oil or coolant in it, so I just wanted to start it for 1/2 a second. Well, it started right up and so I tried to cut it off but I guess the on/off swith is broke. Whats going on here?

 

3. So, running a Noss Head at 540ft with FMF pipes and Boyeson reeds, I was told I should run high octane. I also heard the best solution is to add octane booster to get the octane up to 111. Is this true? With this screw up the engine or anything? Please help, and thanks in advance.

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1. BR8ES is whats spec'd from the factory, your best bet.

 

2. it probably just need to be cleaned, or check the wires for connection. its a black w/white wire that has a quick connect right by the radiator. it works on a ground-kill setup, so make sure all your connections are clean.

 

3. whoever told you that is not so bright. i dont think there is anyway to get the octane to 111 without buying 111. around here its only6 a gallon, way better than using 89 bucks worth of STP booster, naw mean?

 

good luck to ya. :)

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Therail is right but what he meant by the octane is that you wont be able to get that high of octane by just adding booster to your pump gas. He also meant that yes you do need high octane fuel when using 19cc domes. I would recommend 110 octane race fuel or better. Mix it 2 gallons race fuel to 3 gallons premium pump gas to make your 5 gallons and then add your oil at the manufacturers recommended amount. usually a bottle to 5 gallons. check your connections on the kill switch and BR8ES plugs are what you need. Good Luck

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Does anyone run 9's in their 'Shee? ..... I run NGK B9EG.

 

The reason I moved to 9's was that I have had my (std.) head skimmed and therefore increased the compression. The knock on effect of this is to increase the heat produced in the combustion chamber. The 'G' refers to a different style of spark producing tip. ..... very fine.

 

I can only assume that you guys that run the cool heads can remove enough heat to not have to move to a hotter plug. (Or is it colder/harder/softer... I allways get confused about the term).

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Does anyone run 9's in their 'Shee? ..... I run NGK B9EG.

 

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I run BR8EG's in my bike. They are a little more expensive but worth it in my opinion. A positive attribute to the EG series is that its damn hard to foul a plug.

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Couple of questions...

 

1. I bought spark plugs labeled BR8ES. I think these are the wrong ones because I have older ones labeled BP8ES and B8ES and so on.... So once and for all, what plugs do I need for running a Noss Head, 19cc domes, FMF pipes, at 540 ft above sea level?

 

2. I just got the shee together, and wanted to test it to make sure it starts. I didnt have any oil or coolant in it, so I just wanted to start it for 1/2 a second. Well, it started right up and so I tried to cut it off but I guess the on/off swith is broke. Whats going on here?

 

3. So, running a Noss Head at 540ft with FMF pipes and Boyeson reeds, I was told I should run high octane. I also heard the best solution is to add octane booster to get the octane up to 111. Is this true? With this screw up the engine or anything? Please help, and thanks in advance.

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1. I've been using only B8ES plugs. Although I've used BR8ES on occasion. Dont see a need for a resistor in the plug unless the Shee had a radio installed in it. I've NEVER fouled a plug.

 

2. Are you talking about the keyed switch or the handle bar switch? If its the handlebar switch, just take it apart and clean the contacts. After the contacts are clean make sure the contacts are actually touching when its switched to the off position. The same thing happened to me. I cleaned up the contacts and she works like new now. I did have to ever so slightly bend out one of the contacts.

 

3. You will NEVER get to 111 octane with any kind of XYZ brand octane booster. If you read the can, it'll say it will raise the octane 7-10 points. They mean TENTHS of a point. Most octane additives are made from 1 of three things: Xylene,Toulene, and MTBE. If you wanted to you, can buy a gallon of Xylene from a paint store for less than 10 bucks. Maybe someone with a chemistry background will chime in and give the proper ratio's to mix with gas. I've never used xylene myself, but I've heard of other people using it for their autos. Haven't heard of anybody using it in a 2-stroke. Again, maybe someone who knows chemistry will chime in.

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You can use B8ES, BR8ES, B8EG, BR8EG, B8EV, BR8EV, B8EIX , and finally BR8EIX. The R is a resister plug as mentioned. All the new banshees come with BR8ES plugs and some of the older years actually require resister plugs the the spark noise wouldn't interfear with the CDI. If you run a Dyna ignition system you must run resister plugs for this same reason. The "S" series plugs is your standard large center electrode. The "G" series is a nickel electrode with a fine tip (I think .15). The "V" series might be platinum but don't quote me on that and has a slightly finer wire than the G plugs (I believe .13). Then the top of the line Iridium plugs EIX series... they are expensive but are extremely hard to foul. If you are willing to spend 8 dollars a plug then go for the EIX plugs. If you don't want to spend that much the G and V series are around 5 dollars each. If your a cheap ass or broke buy the standard S plugs for 1.50 each. If your machine is jetted right you shouldn't have fouling problems and you shouldn't need to replace plugs unless you just feel the urge to. If you want the exact specs of each type of plug check out www.ngksparkplugs.com

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You can use B8ES, BR8ES, B8EG, BR8EG, B8EV, BR8EV, B8EIX , and finally BR8EIX. The R is a resister plug as mentioned. All the new banshees come with BR8ES plugs and some of the older years actually require resister plugs the the spark noise wouldn't interfear with the CDI. If you run a Dyna ignition system you must run resister plugs for this same reason. The "S" series plugs is your standard large center electrode. The "G" series is a nickel electrode with a fine tip (I think .15). The "V" series might be platinum but don't quote me on that and has a slightly finer wire than the G plugs (I believe .13). Then the top of the line Iridium plugs EIX series... they are expensive but are extremely hard to foul. If you are willing to spend 8 dollars a plug then go for the EIX plugs. If you don't want to spend that much the G and V series are around 5 dollars each. If your a cheap ass or broke buy the standard S plugs for 1.50 each. If your machine is jetted right you shouldn't have fouling problems and you shouldn't need to replace plugs unless you just feel the urge to. If you want the exact specs of each type of plug check out www.ngksparkplugs.com

338710[/snapback]

Good info

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