RNBRAD Posted August 30, 2005 Report Share Posted August 30, 2005 This topic has come up quite a bit lately so maybe this will be some help for some of those that do their own repairs and mods. Total equipment cost is around 22 dollars from a local hardware store. The hand pump you can get from any medical supply company locally or over the net for around 3 to 5 dollars. In this pic you will see a hand compression bulb, hose, T-connector with shut off valve on the hose, a gauge, male 1/4'' to 1/8'' thread adapter, 2 straight reduction couplers (one a threaded brass and the other a plastic double end reduction coupler), four 1 3/4' to 1 1/2' tapered rubber plugs. Take your gauge and use a thread adapter (depending on the gauges thread size) and add a double male thread adapter so you can add the threaded reduction coupler. Take 2 of the plugs and center drill a hole in each one. Use a bit that is just a tad smaller than your reduction couplers diameter. Now push both reduction couplers through the rubber plugs. Really no need to use sealer between the couplers and the plugs if it's a tight fit. Be sure and use a thread sealer for constructing the brass fittings to the gauge. Place the virgin rubber plugs inside the exhaust port, do not use any lube. Use a flathead screw driver around the edge and push them into the exhaust port leaving about a 1/4 inch out. Take the one with the gauge and the pump installed and mount then to your intake manifold boots. Push them in by hand as far as you can and then tighten them down with your hose clamps. Make sure they are tight. Install the spark plugs and tighten them to the proper torque. Use the hand pump until you see 6lbs psi on the guage and then turn off the air with the valve to the squeeze bulb. This is a must cause these things will leak a little around it's internal valve. 6lbs for 6 minutes and your good to go. To test for leaks use a small spray bottle with a little liquid soap and water. Squirt around all seals of the intake, reeds, spacers, head, base gasket, spark plugs, and right and left crank until you locate the bubbling. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaysea1 Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 Thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSH THE THROTTLE Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 Awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKJK Posted August 31, 2005 Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 Brad Great tip, thanks for the info.I could'nt help but notice.Your flywheel looks like it's been cut down on the circumference+the original ballance marks are still visable. Was there just not that much material removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNBRAD Posted August 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2005 Brad Great tip, thanks for the info.I could'nt help but notice.Your flywheel looks like it's been cut down on the circumference+the original ballance marks are still visable. Was there just not that much material removed? 410242[/snapback] It's a Ricky Stator flywheel so I dunno if the balance marks are different from the OEM. The balance holes are almost flush with the surface where it was milled, the pic doesn't show it as well. According to whiteknuckle they removed as much from it as they do a regular oem unit. Though I've heard the magnets in them are larger and you can't take them down as far but whiteknucke disagreed and said they do them all the time. Maybe different company's remove different amounts of material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holyman Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 That's great info but it doesn't test if the crank seal is bad between jugs. In your case, you would have to pull off the crossover tube and plug it and run the gauge in the exhaust. Great pics... I'm glad someone finally put some up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odaen Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 great post, would be nice to get it stickied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNBRAD Posted September 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 That's great info but it doesn't test if the crank seal is bad between jugs. In your case, you would have to pull off the crossover tube and plug it and run the gauge in the exhaust. Great pics... I'm glad someone finally put some up! 410544[/snapback] There's not a crank seal between juggs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stclark816 Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 Nice, needs to be a sticky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted September 1, 2005 Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 There's not a crank seal between juggs. 410622[/snapback] no but there are o rings... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNBRAD Posted September 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2005 no but there are o rings... 410633[/snapback] Only on the aftermarket cranks. It is to keep the outer bearing race from spiining in the case since they don't have the bearing pin. Otherwise air can go between the inner crank bearing and web, through all the bearings to the other side inner crank web and inner bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holyman Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 How is that possible? When the piston goes down it is supposed to push the gas mix up to the top of the piston. The area is pressurized. If you lose the pressure from side to side when does it come back up? And what is this??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brugal Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Thanks for the knowledge... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNBRAD Posted September 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 How is that possible? When the piston goes down it is supposed to push the gas mix up to the top of the piston. The area is pressurized. If you lose the pressure from side to side when does it come back up?And what is this??? 410743[/snapback] I believe they call it a labrynth seal, though they are not a "true seal". Low velocity air travels right through them, this is why banshee owners don't test each cylinder seperatly. I found where I read this, here's the link about halfway down the page. MOTIONPRO 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTOYS Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 RnBrad is correct! Hey Brad , It will hold pressure better when you get your spark plugs in . jk lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.