fasstbanshee Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 went riding sunday jumped off a bridge in the trails landed on a rock broke footpeg right off and ripped one of the nut inserts inside the frame right out still attacted to the peg. i did notice that the front peg bolt has rattled out. it was a long slow ride out of the woods about 20 miles from the truck and i was riding with one leg (got real soar fast). i have a guy welding it up and it will be better and stronger than before. anyone had this happen, what did you do to fix it. i will post pics soon tommarow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WALLACE84 Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 What do you mean nut inserts inside the frame? Did you tear the threads out? I never had that happen to me but Ive broken off a bolt there and had to drill and retap it. If you just screw the threads over,you can retap it. But im not to clear on what your talking about so I guess I have to wait until you post some pics up -Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 I made new threaded bungs and TIG welded them into my frame. The easier thing to do would be to buy a replacement frame from a dude name Minkia on here. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Well, there are some bad A$$ thread inserts I have used that cost about $150.00 for the tools and 10 inserts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KlotzBanshee Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 I am actually in the process of repairing the same problem on my left side peg mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Well, there are some bad A$$ thread inserts I have used that cost about $150.00 for the tools and 10 inserts. I suppose what it really comes down to is how bad the damage is and how money he wants to spend fixing it. Post up a link to the thread inserts you are talking about. I think I have a pretty good ideas as to what they are, but I'd like to see them any way. If there is budget on this repair then a high quality, non-plated nut with make a fine bung to weld into the frame. :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 (edited) Well basically you drill the hole with this giant cobalt drill bit, then stick this special countersink drill bit in it and countersink it. Then you get the insert out, and the top of it rounds out to take up the area you countersunk, and you drive it in with a special tool that looks like this. It all looks flush and factory when its done. We fixed the Audi 1.8T stripped out oil pan drain plugs with them. They are cool cause it doesn't have that tang that sticks out in the bottom like a heli coil has. EZ Lok drive tool They make a whole kit with both drill bits, the drive tool and the inserts though, thats where it gets spendy. Cause you get to buy a different tool fore every different sized insert. Edited June 6, 2007 by Snopczynski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Well basically you drill the hole with this giant cobalt drill bit, then stick this special countersink drill bit in it and countersink it.Then you get the insert out, and the top of it rounds out to take up the area you countersunk, and you drive it in with a special tool that looks like this. It all looks flush and factory when its done. We fixed the Audi 1.8T stripped out oil pan drain plugs with them. They are cool cause it doesn't have that tang that sticks out in the bottom like a heli coil has. EZ Lok drive tool They make a whole kit with both drill bits, the drive tool and the inserts though, thats where it gets spendy. Cause you get to buy a different tool fore every different sized insert. That's interesting. That wasn't what I was thinking of. I am not sure I have seen that before. Do have any pictures of something you used them on? :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 That's my next project, got a similar problem goin' on. Had a stripped footpeg bolt and Helicoiled it, which was a bitch because the rear two bolts don't bottom out on anything so I had to rip out a couple unwound helicoil springs, finally got it done and used a 10mm coarse thread 8.8 bolt but for some reason or another it didn't last (don't exactly remember why). I wound up doing the nut welding thing on that one, the RH rear where it's offset inwards. I used to run nerfs, old steel DG's that bolted to the two footpeg mount bolts, and that apparently offered alot of support/reinforcement for the footpeg, because even with footpeg extensions I never really had any problems breaking bolts. Last year I ditched the nerfs and kept the extensions and that's when the fun started. First race this year I was hammering through some whoops and the RH front bolt broke off clean at the threads, and the rear bent. Here's a link to a thread repair deal that camatv told me he used on footpeg bolts, and we've used them here at work on Cat scrapers numerous times (Cat sells 'em by the box): http://mdmetric.com/pdf/keysert.pdf I may hafta use those, but I'd just as soon drill & tap the four holes to a larger size and use a coarse thread so I can use Stainless or Titanium fastners (I can't find 10mm with 1.25mm thread pitch anywhere in either one, only 1.5mm thread pitch). I'm contemplating drilling & tapping to 12mmx1.5mm but that also means I gotta drill out the four holes in the footpegs, it would be nice if I had access to a good drill press, and also my pegs are powdercoated so it'll likely fuck that up some too. So my best bet may be the keyserts in 10mmx1.5mm and 10mm bolts, just hope that's big enough and there's enough metal there to hog out a big enough hole for the inserts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 I used them on a set of Banshee footpegs in my buddies frame. He is 6'5" and weighs 260lbs. Before we put these inserts in he had stripped the original threads, then broke the helicoils out 2 times. Now he has had these in for a year with no issues so far. I dont have any pics though, and his frame is in Vancouver at the powder coater, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 I have both rear bolts on my Jarm frame stripped. I just drilled and tapped it with the next biggest size...no problems... You guy sure you're not just bored or something?? LOL... Then again, it's a drag bike, not like I'm jumping a rail road track or double on it.... It sucked because my chain tensioner needs to be tightened down by the rear footpeg bolt, too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboybanshee Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 I have both rear bolts on my Jarm frame stripped. I just drilled and tapped it with the next biggest size...no problems... You guy sure you're not just bored or something?? LOL... Then again, it's a drag bike, not like I'm jumping a rail road track or double on it.... It sucked because my chain tensioner needs to be tightened down by the rear footpeg bolt, too... All 4 of my peg bolt holes on the drag bike are drilled and tapped :biggrin: :ninja: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 I have used blind rivet nuts on my rhino and trailer and they hold up well, but they would be way too big to put in a banshee frame where the foot peg bolts go. :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevy7398 Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 i drilled the rear bolt holes on both sides out a bit and ran a piece of 1/2 allthread all the way through the frame tube and used nuts on both sides to hold on the pegs, this way the force is trying to strecth the all thread not rip the inserts outta the frame again and again, pluss if the all thread gets messed up i just pull it out and spend about 5 bucks on a new hunk vs trying to tix the damn shit again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYUK Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 many frames on the bikes i part out are like this, that is why you see me sell them ones for 100 and shipping. the birdshit welds on them inserts crack, rust, then sometimes spin right out when i hit them with an impact gun. just another weak link on the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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