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What do I need for a 4 mil build?


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#1 fuzzypickles

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 08:06 AM

I am thinking of doing a 4 mil build but not sure what I need or can expect to do. I know how to dissasemble the engine entirely. I was thinking i would need a gasket set, 4mm crank, and spacer. I cannot find a head spacer, only cylinder base spacers and that would play with my port timing... is there any other parts I need? Any advice or things to watch out for?

#2 ZillaFreak

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 08:10 AM

I am thinking of doing a 4 mil build but not sure what I need or can expect to do. I know how to dissasemble the engine entirely. I was thinking i would need a gasket set, 4mm crank, and spacer. I cannot find a head spacer, only cylinder base spacers and that would play with my port timing... is there any other parts I need? Any advice or things to watch out for?


what you will need is a crank, porting, head cut or coolhead, and gasket/seals.

plus you might need to upgrade the clutch, like a stronger set of fibers, a pancake beaing, a modded shift star. shit like that.

Edited by ZillaFreak, 12 January 2012 - 08:11 AM.


#3 fuzzypickles

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 08:34 AM

what you will need is a crank, porting, head cut or coolhead, and gasket/seals.

plus you might need to upgrade the clutch, like a stronger set of fibers, a pancake beaing, a modded shift star. shit like that.


So the cool heads come readily compatable with a 4 mil crank?

Edited by fuzzypickles, 12 January 2012 - 08:35 AM.


#4 bansheesandrider

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 09:28 AM

So the cool heads come readily compatable with a 4 mil crank?

When you buy the coolhead you must get one with stroker domes. They are readily available, you just must specify that's what you need. Just by going to a stroker you are changing your port timing. A spacer plate corrects this somewhat, but is a poor way of doing it. The best way to do it is port your cylinders for the stroke and then either have the stock head cut for the stroker or use a coolhead with stroker domes. If you cut the head or use stroker domes you don't need the spacer. You may need to upgrade your pipes or carbs depending what you have now. You will need better springs in the clutch, shift mods, a billet impeller, a timing plate, better reeds, a longer swingarm, and maybe change your gearing.

#5 Larry's Shee

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 10:12 AM

http://www.vitosperf...&cat=200&page=1 Here's is the head plate you were asking about in shout last night. It's like having stroker domes on stock head.

Several different ways to go about building a stroker. If you go long rod (115mm) you will need new pistons. If you use standard rod (110mm) you can use your current pistons.

What are your plans for it? Other mods, etc? :cheers:

#6 fuzzypickles

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 10:13 AM

When you buy the coolhead you must get one with stroker domes. They are readily available, you just must specify that's what you need. Just by going to a stroker you are changing your port timing. A spacer plate corrects this somewhat, but is a poor way of doing it. The best way to do it is port your cylinders for the stroke and then either have the stock head cut for the stroker or use a coolhead with stroker domes. If you cut the head or use stroker domes you don't need the spacer. You may need to upgrade your pipes or carbs depending what you have now. You will need better springs in the clutch, shift mods, a billet impeller, a timing plate, better reeds, a longer swingarm, and maybe change your gearing.


Sounds expensive. I was just gonna do stroker crank, spacer, and gaskets and slap it back together. I have Shearer in frames and uni POD clamp on dual filters. Not sure on my sprocket sizes though. For the price of everything you listed i might as well get a serval cat 392 kit.

#7 fuzzypickles

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 10:15 AM

http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=479&cat=200&page=1 Here's is the head plate you were asking about in shout last night. It's like having stroker domes on stock head.

Several different ways to go about building a stroker. If you go long rod (115mm) you will need new pistons. If you use standard rod (110mm) you can use your current pistons.

What are your plans for it? Other mods, etc? :cheers:



Depending on funds i hope to get a 4 mm crank with long rods and a 65 mm piston kit from wiesco. I already have very nice shearer in frames but i would like a set of 35mm carbs to really use the power the engine has the potention for...

#8 ZillaFreak

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 11:43 AM

the longer swinger and gearing change isn't always needed. you might be 100% happy with the stock setup.

but as stated, with the cool head, you have to tell the person you want this size dome for a 4 mil stroker. i dont think there is a price difference in domes for a stock stroke or 4mil.


if you go the route you want, which can work, you wont get the most out of your engine.

#9 DallasGDub

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 12:15 PM

Going +4m does not add tons more power vs. just getting it ported. The +4 stroke adds more trq and lowend power than anything else. A stock stroke that is properly ported and set up has a lot of power. Night and day difference over a non-ported motor.

#10 sstaton1983

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 08:20 PM

if your current crank is good just run it with some nice ported cylinders.the 4 mill crank will give you some better torque numbers.to run a 4 mill setup the way i do you will need to have the cylinders ported anyway.i would stay away from spacers,just something else that can leak.

#11 bansheesandrider

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 11:52 PM

Sounds expensive. I was just gonna do stroker crank, spacer, and gaskets and slap it back together. I have Shearer in frames and uni POD clamp on dual filters. Not sure on my sprocket sizes though. For the price of everything you listed i might as well get a serval cat 392 kit.

This is not a cheap hobby. You get what you pay for and doing something halfway gets you halfway results. Anybody that has been around high performance vehicles knows that when you change one thing, there are 10 more things you will have to modify to make it survive. As was said, a spacer plate is just another place to have an air leak. Considering what you have now, the best bang for the buck is going to be run the stock crank and get it ported. That being said, if you port it for a stock stroke, you may not be able to report it for a 4 mil later.

#12 Bkm2006

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 07:32 PM

hows it run now? are you happy? if your short on cash and have a running bike, why not just save your coin till you need a rebuild. and yes if your thinking 4mill already do it the first time! its a lot cheaper to do the 4mill to start with, then if you where to port your stock cylinder for stoke stroke and want 4 mill later. call jeff at fast ... or any sit sponsor you want .. you will need cool head with cut domes for a 4 mill , crank , pistons, your stock cylinder ported for a 4 mill . thats the basics. then you could go into shift shaft mods . pancake bearing. advance timing plate. the list goes on just contact a site sponsor and decide what you can afford and how far you want to go. I will say though i have a stock stroke aggressive dune ported motor by f.a.s.t and it scream.

#13 mikechief

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 09:27 PM

4mm SHORT rod crank- $375
.080" copper head gasket- $35
vito's superstock pistons- $160
misc. Bullshit/shipping-$100

being able to (unless they have a motor built by a pro) whomp your buddies ...priceless

#14 mike0chek

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 11:12 AM

4mm SHORT rod crank- $375
.080" copper head gasket- $35
vito's superstock pistons- $160
misc. Bullshit/shipping-$100

being able to (unless they have a motor built by a pro) whomp your buddies ...priceless


:headbang:

#15 4MiLLDraGSheE

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Posted 16 January 2012 - 05:31 AM

I'm with everybody else. According to the wife I have almost 16 grand invested in my stock cylinder 4 mill bike. Not that much in the engine obviously but if your going to do it do it right the first time. Call a site sponsor and spend the extra 300 that will make you a lot more power and be more reliable. Crank. Porting. Head with cut domes for your fuel you want. Get some nice clutch fibers. And your golden. If you wanna be cheap then this "sport" isn't for you because you will be disappointed when a stock banshee setup well will fly by you. But I hope you build a nice bike good luck. Sorry to be harsh.