dave5.0 Posted October 29, 2009 Report Posted October 29, 2009 The rods say C.K. or C.R. 158 B The crank has HR 204 in the inside. Anybody know for sure what this is? Quote
SandRageShee Posted October 29, 2009 Report Posted October 29, 2009 here's a pic My link link didnt work.... but the ck 158 is a stock lenght rod..stock stroke also..the hr 204 is just another crank identifier.. its just a stock stroke banshee crank.. from hotrods Quote
AKheathen Posted October 29, 2009 Report Posted October 29, 2009 that's not true....hot rods went and messed the numbers around when the switched to the newer style......old204 is stock stroke, and new=4mill. ck158 is 115mmlongrod and 121 is standard rod Quote
dave5.0 Posted October 29, 2009 Author Report Posted October 29, 2009 Thanks guys. So I have something cool or I don't. I'm crossing my fingers that it is. Quote
dave5.0 Posted October 29, 2009 Author Report Posted October 29, 2009 (edited) The rods say C.K. or C.R. 158 B The crank has HR 204 in the inside. Anybody know for sure what this is? Heres a pic. Maybe this one will work. Edited October 29, 2009 by dave5.0 Quote
AKheathen Posted October 30, 2009 Report Posted October 30, 2009 what you do to be sure is this- measure from the top of one of the main bearings to the top of one of the rod pins in the webbing. 6mm=stock, and 8mm=4mill before you decide to rebuild it, measure the bearing clearances. side play is ok, but you should not fel any direct play also, check the rod bearing play. same thing. and center seal wear on the thrust surfaces. that will give an initial indication if it will cost as much to rebuild as juast buying a new one. Quote
dave5.0 Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Posted October 30, 2009 what you do to be sure is this- measure from the top of one of the main bearings to the top of one of the rod pins in the webbing. 6mm=stock, and 8mm=4mill before you decide to rebuild it, measure the bearing clearances. side play is ok, but you should not fel any direct play also, check the rod bearing play. same thing. and center seal wear on the thrust surfaces. that will give an initial indication if it will cost as much to rebuild as juast buying a new one. Everything feels ok on the thing. The bearings don't even look too bad. The good rod does feel a little tight when you spin it on the crank. It might just be dry though. I was thinking new 4 mills are in the market of $500. You think it would cost that much to rebuild? I guess if you go $80 a rod and get good bearings it could be close and then include the labor since it's welded already. Might be better off finding a good used one somewhere. Quote
T_Shee Posted October 30, 2009 Report Posted October 30, 2009 you already have the crank. i would spend the money and send it off and have it completely rebuilt if possible. then you wont have to worry about it for a long while. buying used got me screwed about 6 months later Quote
AKheathen Posted October 30, 2009 Report Posted October 30, 2009 what the problem is, is what the builder will want to replace, and i've seen new bearings out of spec. you can get cranks for under 400 new, and wildcard has a new hr4mill with extra welds and maxload for 450, which is a pretty good deal as the hr pto bearing can wear out pretty easily Quote
dave5.0 Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Posted October 30, 2009 you already have the crank. i would spend the money and send it off and have it completely rebuilt if possible. then you wont have to worry about it for a long while. buying used got me screwed about 6 months later It probalby wasn't the cranks fault. Probably those Hot Cams you are running. I've heard those are hard on parts. If I could find one that hadn't been welded I might not be too bad. Get it trued and welded and replace the bearings and go for it. I don't know, I'm going to look around and get some prices. Quote
dave5.0 Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Posted October 30, 2009 what the problem is, is what the builder will want to replace, and i've seen new bearings out of spec. you can get cranks for under 400 new, and wildcard has a new hr4mill with extra welds and maxload for 450, which is a pretty good deal as the hr pto bearing can wear out pretty easily 450 doesn't sound too bad. But then again for what I'm doing I could have the good crank I have now trued and welded and get the cylinders ported for about that much. Quote
AKheathen Posted October 30, 2009 Report Posted October 30, 2009 if you can find someone to rebuild for that cheap, lemmie know. remember, they have to set the jig and clock it just right during reasembly, mic everything and carefully cut the welds and use the special press tools to put the right pressures on removing square. i'm not sure i'd like a guy taking shortcuts and mess the webbing... Quote
dave5.0 Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Posted October 30, 2009 if you can find someone to rebuild for that cheap, lemmie know. remember, they have to set the jig and clock it just right during reasembly, mic everything and carefully cut the welds and use the special press tools to put the right pressures on removing square. i'm not sure i'd like a guy taking shortcuts and mess the webbing... If I got it done I'd probably send it to Passion where I would get the porting done. I would think he would do it right. He seems pretty sharp. I haven't checked in to it yet though. Been busy. Quote
T_Shee Posted October 31, 2009 Report Posted October 31, 2009 It probalby wasn't the cranks fault. Probably those Hot Cams you are running. I've heard those are hard on parts. If I could find one that hadn't been welded I might not be too bad. Get it trued and welded and replace the bearings and go for it. I don't know, I'm going to look around and get some prices. damn i bet your right about that cam prolly opened my canuder valve up too much and broke a couple muffeler bearings. 450 isnt a bad deal at all, may be your best option at this point. or just have a piston machined to run on the bent rod...that may be cheaper yet lol Quote
dave5.0 Posted October 31, 2009 Author Report Posted October 31, 2009 damn i bet your right about that cam prolly opened my canuder valve up too much and broke a couple muffeler bearings. 450 isnt a bad deal at all, may be your best option at this point. or just have a piston machined to run on the bent rod...that may be cheaper yet lol Good idea. Hadn't thought about cutting down a piston. Damn that's a big pic!!! Quote
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