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yfz conversion issues


goatbanshee

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I have alot of threads about the yfz conversions, I was able to purchase a really cheap front end off a yfz. I fabbed the lower a arms by cutting a 1/4" off the outside of the mount and fabbed a spacer. Now, I have a clearance issue with the upper a arms and the yfz shocks. I've tried switching the upper a arms from left to right and right to left but it made it steer like a road grader! I needed all 10 acres to steer it! It kicked the spindle back about an inch and I had clearance but didn't like the steering. so my question is does anybody have any pics of relocating the upper shock mount or what did you do to make the upper a arms to work? any info will be greatly appreciated!!!

thanks!

 

goat

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hmmmmm.... i just did my conversion and had no problem? the spindles do sit back quite a bit but you shoulkd have maybe a 1/4 inch betweem the upper arms and shocks. try realighning it.

 

X2. My buddy and I did it to his banshee and the only thing we really had to do was fab the shock mounts to fit the shocks

 

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I have the same issues as you do. My shocks sit really close to the upper arms and I don't like the way it steers. I have a really nice set of Elkas on there that make it nice to jump and trail ride, but for horseshoe racing it sucks bad. I think I'm going to convert back to banshee suspension.

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i just recently finished my swap using ltr450 shocks and they are close really to the rear of the arm. you can see it in the pic. i had to reverse my upper arms, there was absolutely no way they would work otherwise.

016-1.jpg

 

also, i'm sure you guys thought of this too, but i'll throw it out there anyways for the readers who want to know as much about the swap as they can before trying it, if you're using the ltr shocks (i can't speak for the yfz450 shocks cause i dont know how wide they are in comparison to the frame mount width) make sure you put all of your spacers between the shock and the rear of the mounting bracket

006.jpg

007.jpg

i didnt have the spacers in place for these photos, but you can still see the orientation i'm referring to. use the spacers behind the shocks to push their placement as far forward as possible. when supported on blocks and with all the play out of the front end there is about 1/8th inch clearance, but as soon as the weight is on the bike and the suspension is compressed a little, i get about 1/4 inch. its close, but its never made contact during riding yet...and i've tested her out hard because it was a concern i wanted to address.

 

i read another post where the guy had the same complaints of his steering after the swap. he said it felt really heavy and slow.

 

i'm really happy with how my shee handles now. i do need to make a final adjustment to the tie rods but all in all, everythings good and there is absolutely no way i'd go back to stock.

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after studying mulletman's thread on how to install the a arms. I studied the pics also and his spindles also sit back about an inch to inch and a half. I have the same year model a-arms he has. It looks like from his pics that the upper a-arms are switched. I know this by looking at a 450 and a banshee side by side. The upper a arm mount on a 450 sits more to the back than a banshee. I think the only way to make it work would be to cut the rear mount and use the front mount and mock up the rear mount and weld it in. I think would put the spindle more straight up and down and not affect the geometry of the front end as bad. I still don't think it would put perfectly in alignment. I think this is why it is hard steering. If I'm wrong please tell me, but by watchnig the spindle move while turning the bars it looks like it is trying to pull up on one side(left spindle) and push down(right spindle) on the other. Please tell me if I'm thinking wrong.

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hey bud i dont really know how to explain it other than i did it the same way mulletman did his in his thread. yes it does sit back a bit and the shocks almost touch. all i did was cut the lower arms to move forward a bit so the shocks would clear a bit more. as for handleing im not sure why yours doesn't maybe play ,with the toe a bit. sorry i can't really help you anymore than this, TRY GIVING MULLETMAN A pm

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hey bud i dont really know how to explain it other than i did it the same way mulletman did his in his thread. yes it does sit back a bit and the shocks almost touch. all i did was cut the lower arms to move forward a bit so the shocks would clear a bit more. as for handleing im not sure why yours doesn't maybe play ,with the toe a bit. sorry i can't really help you anymore than this, TRY GIVING MULLETMAN A pm

 

thanks man appreciate it.

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