My Stock A-Arm Modification Thread

[regalrocket]

Ok, heres the story. I am a fabricator by trade. I have a bad ball joint on this machine, and HATE the fact that I can't replace the ball joints. I also don't want wider arms because I do a fair ammount of woods riding in tight areas, and just don't see the benefit to myself to get wider arms. I started by ordering 4 Moog ES2074R for 60 bucks. I am going to have the threaded adapters made up for them. The stock arms will have adapters installed so that I can replace the joints next time easily. I am also installing stock YFZ450 shocks, and will modify the lower mounts so that I don't have to grind the shocks at all. All work will be done with an angle grinder, hacksaw, and a TIG welder (a mig would work out just fine). You would be amazed what you can do with an angle grinder. Its my number 1 most used tools. These first few pictures are just the start, I will take it from beginning to end.

 

First thing you have to do is map the stock arms. A simple cardboard template works great. Make sure to mark the center line of the ball joint, you want that to go back where it belongs. I don't have a picture of the inital angle measurement. Pretty much you raise the chassis side of the arm until the ball joint mount plate is level with your table. Note the height of the chassis mount, and that will allow a quick way to set up the mount.

 

 

Next, you have to do some cutting. I started with removing the back webbing of the shock mounts. I used a new hard grinding disk (so it has sharp edges) and just cut down like a cutoff wheel. I took about 5 min a piece. The back webbing does very little, and it will flex at what every point you leave it. I just decided to take it all off. No matter what, if its going to flex, it will somewhere. If it does crack down the road (I highly doubt it will) I can easily make stronger mounts and install those. I want to see how this works for myself, and so you guys know if you choose to do the same.

 

 

Now you have to cut the upper mounts off. I at first cut the ball joint stem off, so that I could measure the angle of the mount plate easier. Then you cut the top, and bottom welds with the cutoff wheel, and then using a soft disk, gently remove JUST the weld. Make sure the disk is new, so that it won't overhear the arm.

 

 

 

 

Now move on the bottom. The mount casting isn't into the arm very far, and you could cut each off just behind the weld and it will fall out. I chose to use a cutoff wheel, and just cut the tubing, not entirely through as the disk isn't that big. I couldn't get the last 1/8 inch or so that is in the inside due to the wheel hitting the other arm. I just clamped it in a vise and used a hacksaw (remove the blade, feed it threw and then attach it to the handle) and it took just a few seconds to nip that last bit off.

 

You can see that the stock mount doesn't go very far into the arm. I removed just the weld. It leaves me options for down the road.

 

 

 

 

More to follow

[shee4speed]

nice project man. Good luck!

[lilmegill727]

looks good so far! i wanna see it done it should be a pretty cool project.

[peterlocal22]

nice work

let us know how it comes out

 

peter

[Thewhite]

I also mod the lower shock mount to accept the YFZ 450 longer shock

[ny98banshee350]

looks good so far.. cant wait to see it done!

[shadow746]

that looks pretty cool

[bonbon]

Looks like a good job going on there. I love little backyard engineering projects. Couple of tools, cardboard and a marker.

[Stellar Performance]

If executed properly....this could be a decent mod to have done!!!

[278]

I like what your doing man, let us know and posts some pics of the final product.

[MikeNick]

Nice..

[regalrocket]

Ok, I finally got motivated again, and finished the bottom.

 

I capped the tube ends with pieces cut with a bimetal hole saw. They were then welded on, and then ground for clearance with the adapters (that I machined myself).

 

 

 

Here is how I set the ball joint angle, this was measured before I cut everything up. After tacking them, I took them back to the diagram, and made sure they were also lined up fore and aft.

 

 

 

All welded up

 

 

Just to prove, 360 of weld :biggrin:

 

 

Pictures of them with the new balljoints

 

 

 

A admin note. Because I want max clearance on the uppers for the shock, The wheels will be pushed out 3/4 an inch from stock, and can be adjusted easily to get an inch a side. I wanted 100 percent stock width, but with the YFZ450 shocks going on, and them being a little bigger, I don't wana get myself in a situation with clearance. I can say, these ball joints have wicked travel compared to stock and it should allow for full travel and no binding.

Edited December 19, 2008 by regalrocket

[sheerider1026]

awesome work man!!! can't wait to see the uppers finished.. do you need those a arms powdercoated??? if so hit me up..

[GrMeyer]

Looks like you have the Idea and tools for this...Why didnt you just fab up some after market arms? Im gettin ready to take on a two seater buggy. should be interesting!!! and awesome work. never looked into adding on the stock arms

[regalrocket]

Looks like you have the Idea and tools for this...Why didnt you just fab up some after market arms? Im gettin ready to take on a two seater buggy. should be interesting!!! and awesome work. never looked into adding on the stock arms

 

I could build new ones, but I'm lazy, and I really don't wana change the geometry. Course, it would probably just slightly more work, but I really tend to go overboard easily, so this will limit me. I just want better ball joints.