ignition timing

[10milmike]

I understand what your saying. ..but why do you say " I hope your doing the things I mentioned " but then not say what they are?

If you don't want to even allude to what the "mods, procedures, and conditioning" are... why even bring it up ?

Not trying to pick an argument, I enjoy reading data and info, but what's the point of being do vague? I don't want anyone to just divulge hard earned info either...so don't take it that way.

He is you just have to read between the fine print. And do work yourself. I have learned a lot these last year on clutch tuning. Because I am going out on the track and putting in the work. Been throw 3 clutchs just trying to get this Dam set up right. I have learned a lot. Bryan has already said to much. Because anyone with clutch knowledge doses not want to tell you shit. Byran is just giving the basics as he started. There is alot to fine tune the clutch. You can have your clutch tuned for one day and the next day it will not work because of track conditions. I have been very fortunate to have bryan and a mutual friend give me pointers. If you want the shit work go spend your money and see what's works and what does not.

[trickedcarbine]

As for the clutch frictions we primarily use Yamaha fzr 1000 fibers. We have played with Barnett kevlar and want to try carbon fiber frictions some time soon.

 

As for the steels, we use different types of materials, treatments & coatings. We have a pretty detailed maintenance & inspection program for the clutch frictions & plates.

Pulled that from 2012 in the lock up thread. Never recall any more info than that

I have a set of those carbon fiber clutches from Barnett. I got them from STY. He sent them out and told me to kick the shit out of them and so far I like them ALOT!

 

As far as weird things done to my clutch, there is lots of Cryo treated parts. The hub, basket, plates, springs, driveline unit. Mostly for strength and wear resistance. The springs the drag guys wouldn't notice, but for something you ride a ton you will notice. It seems to keep them consistant under longer races. Cryo really helps the plates with warpage as well which is the big thing for me.

 

Prep and maintainence, well I guess in dummy terms that means, fighting the glaze. Nothing worse then seeing guys glaze clutches with nearly all the friction material still in tact and wanna throw them out because they think it's junk. (Tip, the heat/oil work hardens this stuff) some guys simply hit their frictions plates with a scotch Brite or roloc on an air grinder. Kinda works, but I think it leaves an Un even surface in some points which causes some issues.

Me personally I use a piece of 400 grit on glass or my machinist granite block and figure 8 the frictions just till I get fresh uniform surface. Tip: don't use your hand as pushing with five fingers creates five points of pressure which leads to Un even surface. I lay a round chunk of steel over the friction and hold it from the side and move it. You need to be hitting everythig with a micrometer before and after. My steels, I've come up with an idea that seems to work really well. I used to do them like the frictions but took time and I don't like making them thinner. So I came up with a chemical solution. Acid etching. Dunk and scotch Brite and they are good as new. Damn near Zero material removal. There's other stuff, but that's the basics of it in my bike.

[trickedcarbine]

What kind of mods and stuff do you do to make a clutch last longer? That would be a good topic to bring up in your lockup thread. I will try 6* on the next race and keep you posted

It was in there, just gotta go way back to find it.

[Joejr915]

Thanks

[SlowerThanYou]

What kind of mods and stuff do you do to make a clutch last longer? That would be a good topic to bring up in your lockup thread.

 

I understand you were making a suggestion, but like I said most & maybe all was covered in the thread.

 

I understand what your saying. ..but why do you say " I hope your doing the things I mentioned " but then not say what they are?

If you don't want to even allude to what the "mods, procedures, and conditioning" are... why even bring it up ?

Not trying to pick an argument, I enjoy reading data and info, but what's the point of being do vague? I don't want anyone to just divulge hard earned info either...so don't take it that way.

 

As for the clutch frictions we primarily use Yamaha fzr 1000 fibers. We have played with Barnett kevlar and want to try carbon fiber frictions some time soon.

 

As for the steels, we use different types of materials, treatments & coatings. We have a pretty detailed maintenance & inspection program for the clutch frictions & plates.

Pulled that from 2012 in the lock up thread. Never recall any more info than that

 

When I've covered areas in the clutch tuning thread. I don't have time to explain clutch information every time the subject comes up elsewhere.

 

Seems like Tricked found the information in the lock-up tuning thread & 10milmike understands you have to read between the lines sometimes.

 

As for alluding or being vague. Guess what, I never mention the key information of base pressure numbers or arm weights when talking on any thread. Get on your high horse about that. I'm really allusive & vague about that subject with good reason.

 

Now, if you or other's don't like the way I post. Go get spoon fed by someone else or don't read my threads/posts.

 

You can follow Trick's lead & actually add to the clutch Lock-Up Tuning Thread or you can continue to question someone who has always taken time to help with the subject! Here's an idea, ask a question about inspecting clutch steels & give an example of what you would do. Balls in your court!

[sprinklerman]

 

 

I understand you were making a suggestion, but like I said most & maybe all was covered in the thread.

 

 

 

When I've covered areas in the clutch tuning thread. I don't have time to explain clutch information every time the subject comes up elsewhere.

 

Seems like Tricked found the information in the lock-up tuning thread & 10milmike understands you have to read between the lines sometimes.

 

As for alluding or being vague. Guess what, I never mention the key information of base pressure numbers or arm weights when talking on any thread. Get on your high horse about that. I'm really allusive & vague about that subject with good reason.

 

Now, if you or other's don't like the way I post. Go get spoon fed by someone else or don't read my threads/posts.

 

You can follow Trick's lead & actually add to the clutch Lock-Up Tuning Thread or you can continue to question someone who has always taken time to help with the subject! Here's an idea, ask a question about inspecting clutch steels & give an example of what you would do. Balls in your court!

I've read it and understand it.

 

I just find it mildly amusing that a grown man would resort to the whole " I know somethiiiiinng yooouu dooonn't..." style of information discussion.

It's nothing personal, I think your a cool guy, but I just find that style of information "discussion" kind of funny.

[10milmike]

Why should bryan give you all the details. He gave us all baseline ideas. Now I took his info and ran with it. I am not master at clutch tuning but sure did learn alot. Go do the work like the rest of us. My 60' want from 1.6 to the 1.3's. There are all types of tricks. Like using the scotch brite on steels. Byran never told me that. It's just something I Tryed on my own and it worked. Why should he give you all the tricks of the trade. In racing you protect that. Why give info out that the next guy can beat you with.

[SlowerThanYou]

I've read it and understand it.

 

I just find it mildly amusing that a grown man would resort to the whole " I know somethiiiiinng yooouu dooonn't..." style of information discussion.

It's nothing personal, I think your a cool guy, but I just find that style of information "discussion" kind of funny.

 

I'll put it this way, Go Fuck Yourself!

 

I was trying to be nice & me knowing something has been shared for all to read. Like I said before balls in your court, but you just want to suck up the information with out providing anything to the subject.

 

If you feel the need to continue this discussion take it to another thread. 

[sprinklerman]

Why should bryan give you all the details. He gave us all baseline ideas. Now I took his info and ran with with. I am not master at clutch tuning but sure did learn alot. Go do the work like the rest of us. My 60' want from 1.6 to the 1.3's. There are all types of tricks. Like using the scotch brite on steels. Byran never told me that. It's just something I Tryed on my own and it worked. Why should he give you all the tricks of the trade. In racing you protect that. Why give info out that the next guy can beat you with.

Did I ask for details? Re-read.

 

I'll use this an an example :

You've seen those chick's at bars at the club who flirt with guys...but have NO intention of putting out?

They're in it simply to SEE if they can get the attention of the guys. ..that's it.

See the similarities?

[sprinklerman]

I'll put it this way, Go Fuck Yourself!

 

I was trying to be nice & me knowing something has been shared for all to read. Like I said before balls in your court, but you just want to suck up the information with out providing anything to the subject.

 

If you feel the need to continue this discussion take it to another thread.

Classy as ever when someone doesn't hang off your every word.

[10milmike]

He gave you base line idea's what the fuck else do you want?

[sprinklerman]

He gave you base line idea's what the fuck else do you want?

I don't WANT anything.

I'm just saying that the way it's presented comes off as a cock tease at times.

Carry on. I don't have time to argue with you. Last post by me. Bash away.

[Joejr915]

Update Races got cancelled so I got another question if I have my timing set at 7* now without spray. What should I back my timing off to for a spray say 30 shot or 60 shot? I got a big race coming up in 2weeks thought of trying it.

[quadgod211]

every 10hp shot retard 1-1.5 degrees is a good rule of thumb i used

[Joejr915]

I tried something different for the past race I turned my timing back up to 9.5* and added a tooth to the rear. But changed somethings in my clutch setup alittle. First 2 passes were a 6.1@ 97 but then was running out of gearing about 75ft before finish line. I added more air to the tires and turned timing backed to 8.5* and turned a 6.0@100 and ran low 6.1's@99 the rest of the night. Didnt have timing to change anything else that night because I didnt have time to. It was bouncing when it came out. It won't come out the the start this race like the race before but was a lot better the big end of this race. Opinions on somethings to try this race. I was thinking on going back to other gearing and clutch setup maybe back timing off some more and play with jetting.