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300 foot drags questions help me out asap


BANSHEEBEEFM2M

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Last time out it went consecutive 4.00 pass. I had way too tall of gear, chassis was all fucked, and pj were almost wide open. Im pretty certain ive made the proper changes, or at least im headed in the right direction. Ill see the 25th. I hope to get some serious track time in next yr. I only was able to get to the track 3times this yr.

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We set the weights up based on different factors. We generally move weight around in 2 lb. - 10 lb. increments in different places on the quad.

 

Here's an example: pulling low 1.30 60's with front brakes on bike. Took the front brakes off bike went to mid 1.40 60's. We placed the weight bar on & went back to low 1.30 60's with no front brakes.

 

The bar is made up to allow adjustment of weight with lead shot. We used a section of black iron pipe threaded on both ends. One end cap is tack welded on, the other is just screwed on to allow shot to be added or removed. There's many different ways to make/use ballast & adding weight in the right places can make the quad quicker.

 

IMO, minimum weight to use without a wheelie bar would be 5lbs. & make it so you could add weight to around 8 lbs.

I want to clarify, I didn't mean to imply, that ballast will fix all issues with a set-up. It really doesn't take much to fuck-up a good run.

 

Here's a run that operator error caused a slow 60' & cost the overall ET.

 

 

 

Bryans393_zpsef4fd0a4.jpg

 

This was done with a stock frame (320 lb.), 443 race gas cub, with a 220 lb. rider.

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