Won't start

[Balzout]

I've been all over this thing with the tester and heres what I found. BTW thanks to tedd1 for the sticky.

 

 

Stator coil should be 13.7 - 20.5 Ohms mine is 11.9 Ohms

Pickup coil should be 94 - 140 Ohms mine is 111.1 Ohms

 

Primary coil should be .28 - .38 Ohms mine is .3 ohms

Secondary coil should be 4700 - 7100 Ohms mine is ???

 

Heres my question, I could not get a reading on the secondary side of the coil, I'm not sure what is going on here but I tested a known good coil and also got an open reading. The part that has me confused is,I could not get a reading between the two plug wires.????? I understand that the coil is a very durable piece, so my meter is F'd, maybe. Does anyone else have trouble getting a reading on the secondary side? The stator is slightly out of spec. Is this enough to keep it from running or could the untested side of the coil my culprit. The bike would tow start and run but now the more I dig, when I tow start it, it is very lazy, like 3000 rpm at WOT lazy. Any thoughts?

[bansheerage]

Was the tester on AC? It should be. stator might be going out. What about compression? Have you tested it.

[Balzout]

One thing to add, I just got back from a friends house who is Mr. Gotrocks with test equiptment and his meter read open on the secondary also. He says the coil is bad but my tester shows that a good coil is out of specs. just like his did. I didn't think to take known good coil to have him test but anyway, does anyone else have trouble with the secondary side testing. One more funny thing is his meter says 5380 Ohms between the two wires, is this normal. I would think there should be no resistance between the two plug wires. ???? Anybody have any thoughts.

[donkeypuncher]

One thing to add, I just got back from a friends house who is Mr. Gotrocks with test equiptment and his meter read open on the secondary also. He says the coil is bad but my tester shows that a good coil is out of specs. just like his did. I didn't think to take known good coil to have him test but anyway, does anyone else have trouble with the secondary side testing. One more funny thing is his meter says 5380 Ohms between the two wires, is this normal. I would think there should be no resistance between the two plug wires. ???? Anybody have any thoughts.

 

had similr problem myself. one day it's runnin fine and the next it won't start. tested the coil and had an open reading on the secondary just like you, turned out i had a bad stator. not sure why i couldn't get the secondary test to work but it's a good coil.

[AKheathen]

haha...um.....tester goes on ohms, lol....anyways......you test the secondary wire to wire most years.......i think there was few years that test wire to ground pole. 5380 is within spec, not counting caps, if they are 5k. try your coil again without the caps on. the resistor caps have brittle resistors in them which can read open, but still let spark through across the break. it will just give you a miss, or weak spark. now, as for the stator, it sounds like it got cooked. low resistance on the stator means wires are shorting in the windings. the symptoms will show as hard starting, and weak spark. so, it probably doesn't spark every kick, or rotation, because it can't charge the cdi enough in 1/2 rotation for it to discharge a spark pulse. sounds like you need both a new stator, and caps. it is verry common to find a bad reading cap, or both when troubleshooting, since it usually still runs ok...

[bansheesandrider]

Was the tester on AC? It should be. stator might be going out. What about compression? Have you tested it.

NO, you want the tester on Ohms, which is both AC and DC. On ALL years Banshees you want to test the secondary by going wire to wire, not wire to ground as the manuals say. That is because a Banshee fire both cylinders at the same time, twice every revolution. Banshees and cars that are distributorless ignition(with coil packs) send the spark out one wire to the plug, it jumps the gap to the ground electrode and travels through the metal of the head to thepaired plugs ground electrode where it jumps the gap to the center electrode and travel back to coil on the other wire. That is why you have to check it wire to wire. The way the manual says is the way to check a single cylinder coil OR a coil that is used with a distributor.

[Balzout]

Thanks guys,

 

Heathen, I tested the coil on the bench by pulling the wires out of the coil, so my readings are to the coil itself. We talked about the 5380 reading being within specs if we were to perform the test that way, but the sticky shows how to properly test it, guess not. I searched back 10 pages or so and never saw mention of it being done that way, maybe I missed it. Do I need to use factory resistor wires or can I substitute aftermarket wires?

 

bansheesandrider, thats interesting the way that works, never heard anything like it. So if I have a bad plug or take one wire off it opens the circuit and the other cyl. wont fire? So the last place to look on a banshee that is running on one cyl. is the ignition?

 

My stator has been rewound twice by Ricky Stator in the last 15 yrs. There was mention on here about longevity issues with his stuff, are there better options?

[tedd1]

I've been all over this thing with the tester and heres what I found. BTW thanks to tedd1 for the sticky.

 

Thanks for the props but I stress that I did not write it. I only copied and pasted the original, which had been lost.

 

Question #32 has been edited to reflect the change in the accepted testing method.

[AKheathen]

Thanks guys,

 

Heathen, I tested the coil on the bench by pulling the wires out of the coil, so my readings are to the coil itself. We talked about the 5380 reading being within specs if we were to perform the test that way, but the sticky shows how to properly test it, guess not. I searched back 10 pages or so and never saw mention of it being done that way, maybe I missed it. Do I need to use factory resistor wires or can I substitute aftermarket wires?

 

bansheesandrider, thats interesting the way that works, never heard anything like it. So if I have a bad plug or take one wire off it opens the circuit and the other cyl. wont fire? So the last place to look on a banshee that is running on one cyl. is the ignition?

 

My stator has been rewound twice by Ricky Stator in the last 15 yrs. There was mention on here about longevity issues with his stuff, are there better options?

like i said, there are few coils that will test that way. it's not just hearsay, speculatoin, or guessing.........we have gone through this a few times, and it resulted in guys go9ng out and testing their good running coils. the majority tests cap to cap only, but few test to the ground. i have pondered about it many times, and all i can think of is that it might ground to the body mid-winding (hence, the need to have bare metal to mount the coil) otherwise, one bad side would cut off the other, as mentioned.

ok, to answer your questions- first, you can use any solid core non-resistor wires. it's the caps that have the resistor, and those are standard mantenance items, like replacing your distributor cap on a car. i don't know if it's a new thing over the past few years, but ricky stator and others use 30awg mag wire on the ignition windings, whereas 29awg is needed to handle the current. the only way to make a rs, or like stator reliable is completely re-wrap the ignition windings. as of now, the only known reliable stator is stock, and stock rewound, if you need more power...

.....btw, it's about time that writeup was updated .....if we could only fix the jetting faq, that would be awesome