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newbie intro, dummy questions


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Hello banshee HQ. I'm three quarter, a 29 yo married father of two from central Appalachia. I'm not new to riding, just new to the banshee. The trading bug hit me, and I ended up with a rather rough banshee.

 

She barely ran when I got her on Friday, except at wot. Half the bolts were missing from the plastic, and the left spark plug was only threaded halfway in, held in place only by the plug wire. I tightened almost every bolt from the bumper to the swingarm, and turned to the carbs, three of the reed valve bolts were loosened significantly, and the right main jet was lying in the bowl.

 

Anyway, that's all fixed, I need a float needle which will be coming as soon as the shop opens up. I just see some things that don't make sense. First, there's no coolant overflow bottle. There is supposed to be, right? Next, the case vent goes nowhere, just a hose stuffed in front of the fuel tank(which was plugged with dirt). Where should it go? I found another piece of vacuum hose running from front to rear, connected to nothing...wtf?

 

After cleaning the carbs, she runs pretty good but still won't idle without slight pressure on the throttle. It runs rough on the pilot circuit, smooth and fast as hell from quarter throttle onward. I'm going to tinker with the screws this morning, but I honestly think its a carb sync issue. I've rebuilt and tuned carbs from 25 cc weed eaters to 440 dodge engines, but I've never played with a multi carb setup. Any suggestions for a guy with one vacuum gauge? Lol I know, get a double vacuum gauge.

 

One more dummy question: With a full FMF exhaust, snorkel removal, aftermarket filter and vforce 3 reeds, is a 260 main big enough? It runs good at wot, I can't really check my plugs until I get the right carb to stop flooding. With the monstrous oversights in daily maintenance I've seen(the radiator cap wasn't even on tight), I'm not keen to trust the previous owner's jetting decisions. I never thought to check pilot jet size, I will when my carb kits come in.

 

Thanks, and don't beat on me too hard! ;)

 

P.s: I'll post pictures when I find my cell, its dead in my house, somewhere.

Edited by threequarterthrottle
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 First, there's no coolant overflow bottle.

Most people ditch the overflow bottle, I have 1 bike with and 1 without.

 

 Next, the case vent goes nowhere, just a hose stuffed in front of the fuel tank(which was plugged with dirt). Where should it go? I found another piece of vacuum hose running from front to rear, connected to nothing...wtf?

There is a case vent nipple just below the very rear motor mount bolt, the hose tees above the motor to the other vent under the water pump cover and continues up the stem up high just to nowhere ( it's a vent)

 

 Lol I know, get a double vacuum gauge.

Stock carbs are fairly easy to sync by eye and using the little window in the right side carb body and a divot on the slide at WOT

Build one of these with your gauge instead, most have a low pressure gauge side on them.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585

Leakdown tester is the best tool for a Banshee owner.

 

 

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Some delete the overflow bottle. There would have been a hose from rad to bottle behind air box. Then another from bottle back to and up over steering hoop. Vent from trans goes over hoop also. Stock, it has vent from clutch cover T-eed in, tho some delete that also.

 

When you tear carbs back apart, clean them pussy clean. Set float level, start with air screw 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Do you still have the TORS brick on top of carb? Is so, that is where the idle screw is, if not, it will be on sid eof carbs.

 

Go to FMF site and see if there are any recomendations on jetting. Kinda sounds lean, especially if you have aftermarket air cleaner or no air box lid.

 

BTW, you can sync carbs closer for now either by sight or feel. (that's all I do, lol)

Edited by Larry's Shee
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Thanks Larry. My issue with the pics is they have a 500 kb limit, even if i drop my camera from 8 mp to 2, it's still too big. No tors, I'm missing the cap clamps as well. Hopefully I can find them in a hurry, I'm itching to get her in serviceable condition. The filter adapter is a pro flow, no markings on the filter but I'm certain it's the same.

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You were right, Larry. Fmf recommends a 260/30 with just a snorkel delete. I'm not sure my carbs are original, the caliper shows a few thousandth shy of 28 mms across the bore. They don't appear to be altered, would it be worth the investment to have a machine shop bore them? I don't have a pile of money for this thing, but i can spend a fair amount if I spread it out among existing expenses.

Edited by threequarterthrottle
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