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Banshee 10" Handlebar lightbar.


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Finally got this thing mounted up.  I couldn't find any handlebar clamps that do no use countersunk screws so I made some spacers to lift this one up over the bar clamp.  Longest stainless bolts I could find at lowes were 50mm long, I would have preferred 60mm bolts but hopefully this will be ok for now.  Cutting the 1" spacers in 1/2 and filing them down was tedious and they are not perfectly flat but I think this will work.

 

The rigid mount is getting mounted over the top of my old trailtech bar clamps.  I think I might just re-use them to save some money, plus the holes allow a place for my underlighting switch, or maybe I will use the large hole to route the wire from the light bar.

16590352858_a346f60042_c.jpgIMAG0577 by Glamisduner, on Flickr

 

One of my 3 position switches from trailtech stopped working, so I ordered a new one (the red one).  I don't care for the new one as it is slightly larger, less tactical, and does not appear to seal as well on the bottom (uses metal mounting plate instead of plastic, but it does not line up perfectly like their older switch.

 

Tonight I may try to repair the older switch.  But otherwise this new version will have to do.  I'm too cheap to replace the older switch to have matching switches.  They used to be $20, but now they are $30 come out to about $40 shipped :(  Looks terrible IMO.

 

16777933685_644d960e5f_c.jpgIMAG0579 by Glamisduner, on Flickr


SR2 10" lightbar will be here thursday, it should be 30% brighter than the 2 MR16 flood HID's I had on there before, and will use 10 watts less power.  For now I'm going to keep my 7" HID's below as lower powered LED lights still can't match the throw and bean I get from them.  I might change them out later to save another 20 watts of power though.

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It's on my 250R....sorry for not clarifying.

 

I just got the light today a few days early. The wiring harness this thing comes with is nice, However I think all I really needed is some wires coming out of the thing to connect to my 15 amp trailtech switch.  Did you use the relay?  I'm thinking about chopping the whole harness off.

 

 

didnt the old set up throw out enough light or just not enough spread

 

it was fine, but a little too power hungry, always had to shut off the HID's when we would stop to avoid draining the battery.  Group has been stopping more at night when we ride or slowing down more.  Plus after a rest everyone has LED's now so they electrically start their 450's and take off, I'm stuck  Kicking my banshee over, then after started I have to wait for my HID's to warm up...  

 

Since I had to replace my trail tech switch I decided to get some LED lights.  

Edited by Justintoxicated
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I just got the light today a few days early. The wiring harness this thing comes with is nice, However I think all I really needed is some wires coming out of the thing to connect to my 15 amp trailtech switch.  Did you use the relay?  I'm thinking about chopping the whole harness off.

 

I used the wiring harness.  Don't think mine came with a relay but it did have a small fuse-box which I kept, cheap insurance since these things get wet sometimes.

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So I ended up cutting all the relay and fuse out of the harness, all power comes from a fused distribution block anyways.  Only difference is that if I pop the fuse I will lose all lighting.  I did decide to run a ground from the distribution block this time, rather than grounding the light to the frame like I had done with the HIDs.

 

10" fits fine on the bars, I went this route though because it was on sale and cheaper than 6" version that has the same amount of LED's.  I prefer the light on the bars to be more floody and spots in the stock location.  I used to think spot on the bars made more sense but they both had their advantages / disadvantages, the driving pattern is about perfect I think, but I won't know for sure until test it out.  More flood than a spot, and more spot than a flood.   I think it will be better than the 6" version for what I am looking for, but either would work.  the 6" might look nicer but the 10" should add more fill light.  Notice that most people prefer the bars in the dunes because and now even the curved versions because they throw more light to the surrounding area.  HID's still throw father than LEDs.

 

Again, if I was racing cross country or high speeds spot would be more useful but I find flood light in the dunes will help you pic the where you want to go, it just needs to be ALOT of flood light.  If I had halogens I would go for a spot on the bars for sure.  Spots are nice for navigating out to the distance.  This particular 10" light is 50 watts, which is just about what I wanted for the bars.  I was tempted to get the E-series version but that didn't leave any power for stock location lights (not that they would be needed).

 

This video shows the exact configuration and pattern.  

 

The 20 watt baja designs mini lights are pretty bad ass, I was playing with them at the store.  Just too damn expensive, but they would be perfect spots for frame mounting while keeping total power under 100 watts!

Edited by Justintoxicated
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This video shows the spot, flood, and driving versions of the SR210" light.  TO me the driving is the only acceptable one.  They do also make a SR2 10" combo light with hyperspot and driving (not shown in the video) but it uses less LED's, power, and produces less lumens.  It might be a candidate if your trying to conserve power, or doing higher speed racing.  I could not find an example of that particular light.

 

I chose driving pattern for the dunes.

 

I think the non driving lights are also less lumens due to using different optics and less LEDs, the 10" driving bar uses 18 LEDs!

 

Edited by Justintoxicated
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For replacing your 7" hids, give a serious look at the vision x light cannons. I have the 4.5" 25 watt ones mounted in stock location and they are plain silly bright and throw father than I can clearly see to.

The building is about 200 yards away for reference. This is 2 25 watt light cannons with just clear covers (10° spot beams) and two 10 watt vision x solstice leds (one spot, one euro) on the bars.

 

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