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Lock Out/Lock-Up Tuning


SlowerThanYou

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You can get thicker steels which will fatten the clutch pack (increase the stack height)  and move the outer pressure plate closer to the lockup or machine down the "legs" on either the inner pressure plate or the lockup itself.

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how thin are you guys running your clutch fibers before throwing them away?

 

Stock is supposed to be 3mm or 0.118 we always measure them new. We very rarely have any that wear below 0.117 before throwing away. Most of the reasons for trashing them has nothing to do with the wear of the friction/fibers. It has more to do with the condition of the friction/fibers.

 

We can generally get max performance out of the fibers for around 100 heads-up runs. That's any type of run 300', 1/8 or 1/4 mile. The next 100 runs we consider them for bracket/index racing. They have lost some of there performance, but are still consistent to use. We have tested them over 200 runs, but that's when they start breaking.

 

The above examples are from a well inspected/maintained clutch program. 

 

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What is the best way to decrease your air gap and what effect will it have?

  

 

I covered the air gap earlier in the thread. Tedder hit the nail on the head or more properly MTC did!

 

You need a minimum air gap for the clutch & of course there's a maximum. IMO, for tuning purposes there's no reason to fuck with it. Unless it's causing problems like MTC somewhat explained.

 

Now, someone mentioned reaction times associated with air gap. In our testing, changing the clutch pack height can help to quicken or slow the quads reaction time. While changing the clutch pack height changes the air gap. It's the change in pack height giving the quicker/slower reaction.

 

Here's an example of what we do. We use a thicker than stock clutch pack height for .400 pro tree racing. For full tree we use a stock clutch pack height. For the air gap settings with the 2 different clutch pack heights. We machine different thickness pressure plates to keep the air gap the same.

 

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