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Testing ignition coil


Bill

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I am going to run all new grounds because I do not believe I am getting a good ground from my all aluminum frame. But I wanted to make sure all my other componets were good before I went off chasing a ghost ground.

 

 

I just rebuilt my shee from the ground up and had my frame powder coated. How many grounds are there? Which locations? I knw the coil, cdi. Whats the little silver box next to the cdi? Sorry for stepping in on the thread thought it was an appropriate time to ask lol

Edited by 2strokesmoker
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I just rebuilt my shee from the ground up and had my frame powder coated. How many grounds are there? Which locations? I knw the coil, cdi. Whats the little silver box next to the cdi? Sorry for stepping in on the thread thought it was an appropriate time to ask lol

 

 

 

I think the OP has been lost in this deal but the silver box is the voltage regulator associated with the lights and if it does not ground to chassis correctly, you will burn out all your lights because it will not shunt or restrict the voltage to 14.5V.

 

 

 

 

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I think the OP has been lost in this deal but the silver box is the voltage regulator associated with the lights and if it does not ground to chassis correctly, you will burn out all your lights because it will not shunt or restrict the voltage to 14.5V.

 

 

oh. ok lol. What other grounds need to be free of powder coat besides the coil and voltage reg.?

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engine to chassis? so just by installing the motor grounds it correct?

 

 

Tabs or flats on chassis and engine should be bared. Yeah. Some bikes have an external ground strap from engine to chassis to ensure good grounding.

 

 

 

 

B

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Tabs or flats on chassis and engine should be bared. Yeah. Some bikes have an external ground strap from engine to chassis to ensure good grounding.

 

 

 

 

B

 

 

 

Awesome! Well my ponys are already installed. I had a hard time getting her in so hopefully she scraped enough to get a good ground!

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Yea my tester only goes up to 2000k, guess that explains why i'm not getting a reading from plug wire to plug wire.

 

As for my tester it zeros out at 00.2 ohms, so my primary coil is testing 00.8 ohms.

 

With the primary coil testing wrong will it give me a weak spark causing plugs to fowl?

 

It worked on my banshee before I tore her down, but it did have a slight miss on the bottom.

 

I don't know ill keep tinkering with it and see how it runs when I get the banshee done.

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Yea my tester only goes up to 2000k, guess that explains why i'm not getting a reading from plug wire to plug wire.

 

As for my tester it zeros out at 00.2 ohms, so my primary coil is testing 00.8 ohms.

 

With the primary coil testing wrong will it give me a weak spark causing plugs to fowl?

 

It worked on my banshee before I tore her down, but it did have a slight miss on the bottom.

 

I don't know ill keep tinkering with it and see how it runs when I get the banshee done.

 

 

 

I am betting the coil is fine. You have other issues. Again, hard to put much faith in a cheapy meter. Their accuracy is next to nothing. Pretty much like putting faith in some Harbor freight sockets and then complaining that all your bolts are rounded off so the bolts must be junk. IMO, this day in age (electronics age), it is important to have a quality meter that tests accurately. Your very first test in putting the two leads together and not getting zero tells you right there what you are dealing with.

 

 

B

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at least with a craftsman fluke clone, you can calibrate it. imo, 0.02 ohms zeroed, is acceptable for most aplications, but a good battery is essential for ohming

 

 

 

He said .2 ohms and that would be enough to cause big problems with any motor/stator/winding testing. .2 ohms is a lot for inductive circuits.

 

 

 

 

 

B

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He said .2 ohms and that would be enough to cause big problems with any motor/stator/winding testing. .2 ohms is a lot for inductive circuits.

 

 

 

 

 

B

i know. i was just stating that .02 is acceptable, meaning that more than that is not, i.e .2. i calibrate to 0.00 with a fresh battery, and it might flash .01 breifely, if i've been testing for about 20 min or so, but that goes back to the importance of a fresh battery. my personal meter is a fluke, and isn't really effected by the battery, though. even running backlight, and beep

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Well if my miss was other that the coil before than I shouldnt have any problems now since everything on the engine is fresh and new.

 

Ill have her fired up by this weekend and see how it runs.

 

Thanks for all the info B.

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